Introducing Titus-Poodle or Poodle Cross? Hmm...

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OMG!!!

I was on the phone with the net company for an hour yesterday, very annoyed and tired. Lady, my other dog, is tiny and litter trained. And most of you know abotu my new standard poodle, Titus.

Picture this. I'm on the phone, annoyed out of my brain, then I see Titus (a big standard poodle) squating over Lady's litter box taking a poo.

LOLOLOL!! He is so smart! :lol7:
 
jorats said:
Lady has a litter box? That is soooo cool!
And they do say standard poodles are extremely intelligent. :wink:
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I am so so so proud of him. He is learning so fast.

I'm going to hire a dog walker to take him out in the early afternoon while I am at work.

He is being neutered and getting his rabies shot this Thursday.

He has a big crate now (I bussed my ass to mississauga, found out how HUGE it was and cabbed home... they made me pay an extra 10$ for a friggin van, stupid cab company)! I have been not letting him on the bed and he goes in his crate sometimes. I'm never going to close it until he is more than comfortable in it.

He was good the last two nights and did not piddle or poo anywhere.

I finally found a treat he likes for training. Cooked liver and chicken gizzards, lol.
 
so of all breeds, why did you choose a standard poodle? i must say i am not a fan, of the 6 i know i only like one.

just seems weird since you have lady, and she's tiny..
what litter do you use for dogs? i remember seeing these things that looked like tiny peanuts at pj's once, but i thought it was pretty stupid because there's this green hairy stuff called grass, and it's free :p

who are you going to let walk your dog?
 
As long as I can remember, I have always wanted a chihuahua and Poodle. I always said I'd have a small tiny dog and a big one, lol.

I use some non clumping cat litter from Pet Vale for Lady's litter. Titus goes outside, other than that one time, hehe.

I'm screening people right now to walk Titus. Can you recommend anyone in my area Bathurst and Eglinton?
 
a) step in harnesses can physical damage to large dogs... if they are pullers. If he becomes a puller a body harness will not be a good choice.

b) I would not switch him to a head harness unless his walking is a problem, especially if he is as shy and uncomfortable as you make him sound. Most dogs DO hate head harnesses, but some walk beautifully on them when they have a chance to get used to them. Some dogs get so stressed they shut down completely when a head harness is put on them. So it really has to be gauged on a dog by dog basis. As for head harness brands, the only one I recommend is by Newtrix. http://newtrix.ca/docs/index.php It leads from behind the head, unlike others, and puts less tension directly on the muzzle area during a correction. The head harnesses that lead from beneath the muzzle aren't as good as they tend to wrap uncomfortably, and jerks the head in a very unnatural way that can actually injure. Also, it puts the leash and head harness in prime chewing territory. And as Bronwyn pointed out, some dogs hate the head harness so much that they'll walk beautifully to not have it put on!

c) any trainer who sells every dog on one training aide is a bad trainer. No trainer should believe in ONLY martingales, or choke chains, or pinch collars or head harnesses. A good trainer will believe in using different aides on different dogs. I have no problem with choke chains on the proper dog, (for instance a dog who generally walks well on a loose lead but occasionally needs a small, quick correction) but martingales are preferred. Also, the trainer I work with charges $185 for a 7 week course (1 hour classes). There is also a maximum of 6 students per class. Some places have more classes that are shorter or less classes that are longer, and some will have huge classes with lots of "helpers" but no one-on-one time with the trainer for you... so do lots of shopping around. You should be able to visit facilities, sit in on classes and be able to talk to each trainer about their training philosophy. Stay far away from Petsmart classes :lol:

d) as for high protein being bad for a puppy... :roll: tell that to the raw feeders out there. But any food changing you do should be very slow. He's going through a lot of changes and being as sensitive as he is, he'll need everything done slowly and carefully.

e) Javakittie said it well.. Not everyone in animal care can be a vet, not everyone can be a groomer. I am living proof of this. I can do the basic stuff but I in no way claim to be a groomer. I make sure my customers at work know this when they ask things of me sometimes. If anything, make sure you get yourself comfortable with nail trimming and ear cleaning, and that he's good about brush-outs. If he'll behave while you brush him head to toe, you can probably get away with less trips to the groomer. I really put emphasis on the ear cleaning though. All the poodles that come to my daycare have ear issues.

f)If he likes liver and gizzards, make sure to always have some around! You'll be doing lots and lots of training for the next little while! It sounds like he's adjusting really well and that you are really enjoying him. :)
 
Thanks for all of your help!

He is doing really well on the harness as he does not pull forward. I just need to tug him when he stops too much to mark.

I'm hoping I can get someone to show me how to do some grooming basics so I can take him to the groomer maybe every couple of months. I was looking at his ears when I got him, and they were fine and I did read about the ear problems so I have been keeping an eye on them.
 
moon said:
d) as for high protein being bad for a puppy... :roll: tell that to the raw feeders out there.
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hi protein kibble has more protein than raw meat.. because meat is about 80% water, kibble is completely dry. think of it in a condensed form :p

i can recommend the sensible harness and nothing else for pullers, other than proper training. i have seen it work for a lot of dogs, like 60 plus dogs at least. you also want to remember learning heel can be bad at this stage of life, if the dog is heeling (as in walking beside you, at knee side looking right at you) it has to ignore the smells around him, which in fact allow him to get to know the dogs in the neighbor hood.

sorry, i don't know of anyone in that area.. maybe just put up fliers and some responsible teen can do it :p
 
unglued said:
you also want to remember learning heel can be bad at this stage of life, if the dog is heeling (as in walking beside you, at knee side looking right at you) it has to ignore the smells around him, which in fact allow him to get to know the dogs in the neighbor hood.
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As for heeling during his walks, he's not going out to socialize. He's going out to use the bathroom. He's not going to get to know the dogs in any real way by peeing on the same tree as the other dogs. Even if there are other dogs present, he's not out there to play with them. There is absolutely no reason not to continue reinforcing his training while doing every day things.
 
javakittie said:
unglued said:
you also want to remember learning heel can be bad at this stage of life, if the dog is heeling (as in walking beside you, at knee side looking right at you) it has to ignore the smells around him, which in fact allow him to get to know the dogs in the neighbor hood.
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As for heeling during his walks, he's not going out to socialize. He's going out to use the bathroom. He's not going to get to know the dogs in any real way by peeing on the same tree as the other dogs. Even if there are other dogs present, he's not out there to play with them. There is absolutely no reason not to continue reinforcing his training while doing every day things.
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I agree with you Java. He will get play time with other dogs wen he learns to listen to me.
 
Very good point, unglued. I never think of things like moisture levels. :roll: This is why I am forever trying to learn about the different diets.

I am inclined to think, though, being that he is 11 months old (he is 11 months old, right?) and not a terribly large breed puppy, he'd be fine on a higher protein diet (if the main issues are, from what I have been reading, growth issues and such) as he's done a good chunk of his growing and has mostly filling out to do. Unfortunately high protein kibbles still seem to have a lot of differing information about them, and I'm having trouble finding unbiased information about them. If anyone has particularly good information on this subject somewhere online, do let me know.

And my two cents on heeling during walks: Have them heel for the first few minutes and the last few minutes of the walk, and in the middle give them more freedom. The best of both worlds!
 
moon said:
And my two cents on heeling during walks: Have them heel for the first few minutes and the last few minutes of the walk, and in the middle give them more freedom. The best of both worlds!
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That is pretty much what I do. I go to a more open area where I can safely let his leash out a bit more. I only have a 4 ft now for training purposes.

I'd really like to bring him to a dog park after his neuter but I'm reading a lot on craigslist (of all places) people complaining their dogs are getting attacked and sick. One person claims their dog got kennel cough.
 
Unfortunately, if you bring your dogs pretty much anywhere there are other dogs (petsmart, vet) there is a chance of getting kennel cough. And kennel cough is not that big a deal if your dog is vaccinated and is relatively healthy. When it comes to dog parks, that is the least of your worries. Same thing with parasites... it's like letting your kids go to school, they're going to get sick at some point.

I'm not a big fan of dog parks for the most part, as the majority of people have no control of their dogs and don't know what's proper dog-etiquette. But, with a good group they can be a blast. You just need to be careful, and be on top of the situation. You also can not be afraid of controlling dogs that are not your own.

But no dog parks until you have a solid come command and he's had some experiences with other dogs. Off leash parks are not the place to begin your socialization. So start with classes and maybe make some local doggie-friends that you can make playdates with first. And a good daycare can do wonders.
 
group walks are probably one of the best ways too, so find a dog walker that does that.

and about smelling, heeling, a good heel is important for places with a lot of people, but i am sick of these 'heel Nazis' i keep seeing, they correct the dog any time it walks a foot in front of them, trying to be 'alpha' no human can be an alpha dog. being alpha is not fun. while on leash let the dog sniff around, that way when it sees a dog who has marked, it would already know it's smell.

the place i work at has weekly seminars for several things Melissa, it's about $30/seminar and they're about an hour long, they have leash walking workshops(3 weeks), an understanding aggression which is great, that one is a 3 week course. separation anxiety, a bunch of them.. all very good info.
 
unglued said:
group walks are probably one of the best ways too, so find a dog walker that does that.

and about smelling, heeling, a good heel is important for places with a lot of people, but i am sick of these 'heel Nazis' i keep seeing, they correct the dog any time it walks a foot in front of them, trying to be 'alpha' no human can be an alpha dog. being alpha is not fun. while on leash let the dog sniff around, that way when it sees a dog who has marked, it would already know it's smell.
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He needs real socialization before I would suggest having him go on group walks or anything like that. As moon suggested, doing group training and play dates would be a very good first step for him. He's had little to no socialization from what I've read, so tossing him in a rather uncontrolled group situation wouldn't be a good option. One person can't handle a group of dogs and break up a fight.

It also doesn't matter if he had smelled another dog's spot on a tree previously. He wouldn't somehow know the dog in any way. It's a spot.. On a tree. It would be just as much a stranger as any other dog on the street. Just because you've smelled a certain perfume doesn't mean you innately know someone who's wearing it. A good heel is all important because it keeps the dog in control. It has nothing to do with trying to be alpha or any such nonsense. It has everything to do with not fighting your dog as they pull, as they try to run off, as they try to go after something, as something comes after them..

My dogs have gotten off of their leads before, and because they knew to heel, to come, to sit, and to stay, it kept them from getting into all kinds of trouble. Such as running into traffic, going after other dogs, it helped me once when another dog came after my dog. I don't know what you're calling a heel nazi if all they're doing is correcting a behavior they don't want the dog to feel is okay. It's reinforcing their training to keep bad habits from forming. You let a kid eat candy too often, they think they should have it all the time, not just when you say it's okay.
 
You guys are great for providing me with all of this info. It is also interesting to see contrasting views on everything.

Titus went in for his neuter this morning!
 
It is also a good idea to teach him the word BREAK with lots of enthusiasm and praise. My Dad uses it so that a dog knows when he is no longer in the HEEL command and he can roam a little without worrying about being corrected. He will sometimes drop the leash and throw a ball which is good when teaching COME off the leash. He does his training in an enclosed room so he can do this without fear of them running off or other dogs. Until you have basic training on him I would not suggest taking him to a dog park or getting him a dog walker. You need to be able to control him at all times.

It is a good idea to work with Titus 15 to 20 minutes 2 or 3 times a day. Some dogs can get frustrated if you try and drill a command into their head and then it will be much harder for you to teach him. Remember when he does do what you want give him lots of praise, tell him what a good boy he is and what a great job he is doing. Just remember to use your voice, not a touch because most dogs will break their command if you touch them, especially during the teaching process. But if you use a happy enthusiastic voice then he will know he did good.

I also believe that you have to assert your self and the one in control otherwise you end up with a dog that will challenge you when corrected and you don't want that.
 
Ok is also another great word for break. Just remember lots of praise and let him know when he is doing good and when he doing wrong.

Whatever you do don't use food as a reward. Because what happens when you want him to do something and you don't have a treat. Guess what he not going to do it.
 
Oh don't worry, I give him lots of verbal praise. I think that's why he is learning so fast. I dont' reward him with food very much. I tried it for teaching him how to sit, but he is a bit oblivious, lol. When I go to bed or leave, I put a bit of chicken liver or gizzard in his crate (I don't close it). Lady usually finds it first and gobbles it up, lol.
 

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