rattyattie_14 said:
Hoestly I'm going to a community college (for two years to get my math and english classes etc. out of the way) that's right up the road from where I live so I would be going home everyday. So there is no need to worry at all.
I'm done talking about this subject because no one knows me or my goals in life. I know saying things bluntly can surely get your point across but you should also try to listen and try to understand what others say. I'm not perfect but I have feeling too.
Like I said before when I joined no one said that this was rescue only. No breeding allowed. But that's fine with me.
no one here is clamming to be perfect. It is ok to have this as a goal, but I really think you are rushing into this. You may have had rats for years, but how long have you studied genetics? Do you know that certain markings can hint at deadly diseases, but those markings aren't the only reason a rat might get MC? Do you know the exact lineage and health of the rats you plan to breed? Do you know what kinds of health issues have run in their lines?
Here is a list of things people look for in an ethical breeder, so you can start to think about how to get there if you really plan on making this happen.
-A wait list should be established before breeding takes place, there should be a demand to ensure that no rats will go with out homes. An ethical breeder will be prepared to keep ALL rats from a litter, which can be as many as 20 rats.
-The breeder should keep many rats from each litter, to help be sure that the line does not have any serious health issues.
-The breeder should keep track of each rat they sell, to keep track of any serious health issues. If issues pop up, that line should not be bread any more.
-Does should only be bread a few times, and only at a certain age.
-Pedigrees should be available upon request, including any health issues the parents had.
- the breeder should have very few litters per year
- the breeder should be trying to better the breed, in temperament and health. Colors should be a secondary concern.
- Breeders should not take in rescues, because of their unknown lineage, but they should maintain a relationship with a good rat rescue, to help those who need those services.
-Breeders should study genetics before they start to breed
- Breeder should have an existing relationship with a vet, who understands rats, and rat breeding, incase of emergency needs.
-The breeder should understand that they will not make money this way, and fees should be to cover costs.
- Breeders should be able to obtain necropsy results for any of their breeding rats in a pedigree, to inform pet parents of any possible genetic issues.
-Breeders should not breed high white markings.
- Breeders should have a tough screening process of where their rats go
- Breeders should never sell for Herp food, or to pet stores
- Breeders should NEVER preform home euthanasia, or culling.
- Breeders should have a through understanding of rats nutritional needs.
- Ratterys should be closed to prevent illness.
- Babies should never be adopted out alone, always in altered pairs, or same sex pairs.
- breeder will insist on taking back any rat that is adopted out, if the new parent cannot keep the rat for some reason
Here is a list of "red flags" from a reputable, ethical breeder who is a member of this forum. IMO she is the only ethical breeder I know of, and she does fit the entire list I provided.
1) Breeder has âtoo manyâ animals.
2) Breeder always has litters available or breeds multiple litters at a time.
3) Breeder fosters out half their litters in order to breed more.
4) Breeder produces litters he/she has no intention of keeping babies from or "just to have a litter".
5) Breeder breeds for adopters, to meet a demand, or make a profit.
6) Breeder breeds immature animals often.
7) Breeder weans babies at less than four weeks of age.
8) Breeder kills (culls) babies for reasons other than as a last resort for an untreatable or incurable disease or injury.
9) Breeder does not keep track of the health and temperament of their lines. Breeder expects adopters to make special effort to keep in touch.
10) Breeder claims their lines are free of all health problems or defects.
11) Breederâs only goals are focused on only one of the following: health, temperament, type, or color.
12) Breeder does not use proper standardized names for the varieties in their rattery.
13) Breeder charges more for popular varieties.
14) Breeder breeds wild rats or âhybridsâ.
15) Breederâs pedigree only offers names and colors of the ratââ¬â¢s ancestors. Breeder cannot share more in-depth knowledge of those rats.
16) Breeder provides minimal care or skips on important factors of care.
17) Breeder does not have a working relationship with a vet or avoids taking seriously ill or injured animals to the vet.
18) Breeder knowingly sells sick or injured animals.
19) Breeder does not observe proper quarantine.
20) Breeder is willing to ship by illegal means.
21) Breeder sells to pet stores or pet expos, or provides rats as reptile food.
22) Breeder will not take back animals they have produced.
23) Breeder asks for donations to keep their rattery running.
24) Breeder does not have an involved adoption procedure or detailed adoption agreement.
25) Breeder also breeds another species.
