How to choose the right type of pet? ideas/info needed

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MissGuardian said:
victoria said:
Rachael said:
MissGuardian said:
Plus, they are vegetarians, and so am I :lol:

Ours are actually vegans hehe :giggle:

I don't know anything about rabbits. Maybe they would be better if they are more affectionate... guinea pigs are a lot less affectionate than ratties in general.

Most rabbits fall somewhere in between rats and GPs. If you get them young and spend lots of time with them, expose them to all sorts of situations, they become much better adjusted.
Any specific kinds/breeds that are better? I would want a small(As small as possible) breed..
But if what I learned working in pet store is correct, hermelins(spelling?) are vicious.. at least over here they are..

Dwarfs (I think that's what you mean by hermelins) are more likely to be tightly wound, BUT any rabbit is much more easy going after sterilization. I know giant breeds (and I mean GIANT) are more likely to be more affectionate but they live much shorter lives. That being said, I have met some very docile and affectionate dwarf bunnies at the shelter I volunteer at. I personally am not a rabbit person because I'm really not very good at reading them and communicating with them. I'm trying my best to improve as I have two buns of my own (I didn't adopt them but ended up keeping them after they were left behind by a former housemate) and maybe that will change, but if I have any more bunnies after they pass on it will probably be on a foster basis.

Bunnies are often abandoned because people get them when they are young and small and aren't prepared to care for them for their entire lives so I would definitely look into a rescue if you're interested in bunnies. Many rescues are good at matching the right bun with the right adopter. If not available, I would avoid the pet store altogether and go to a reputable breeder. If they have been handled lots as babies, they are more likely to be more social and affectionate.

Out of all the options you have, I think chinchillas and bunnies are probably the best two options. They tend to be more affectionate than the rest (except for ferrets that can be super sweet and playful) and aren't prone to constant health issues. (There are always exemptions.) They also don't require as much hands on time (they need out time but in a properly proofed room, they don't get into a lot of trouble) and cage cleaning is not too involved. And they're both herbivores!

ETA: Both buns and chins are sensitive to warm temperatures but chins are VERY sensitive. If you live somewhere where it gets very hot and you have no AC available, you may not want to get them.
 
Chins are oNLY found in pet stores here..
Most bunnies are from pet stores, and almost all of them has teeth issues :(
And yes it was dwarfs I meant.

I would like to rescue tho, but there are barely rescues for dogs and cats here.. There are none for other animals at all :(

We had some huge ones(is there a breed called blue wiener or something similar?).. They nearly broke my back when lifting them :giggle:
 
And regarding temperature; it varies a lot here.. It can(on the few lucky days it's not raining) get up to 30 degrees.. Also, I freeze a lot, so I prefer temperatures above 20 degrees..
 
Rachael said:
Mine aren't so easy with nail clipping time. :/ They are really jumpy and it's not so easy.
At least compared to the other animals(we trained a lot on clipping nails), the GP's were by far the easiest ones.. I know it probably varies tho!
 
MissGuardian said:
Chins are oNLY found in pet stores here..
Most bunnies are from pet stores, and almost all of them has teeth issues :(
And yes it was dwarfs I meant.

I would like to rescue tho, but there are barely rescues for dogs and cats here.. There are none for other animals at all :(

We had some huge ones(is there a breed called blue wiener or something similar?).. They nearly broke my back when lifting them :giggle:

Are there no companion rabbit breeders? There must be... try to see if you can find a show in your area. Tooth issues are always a possibility with rabbits (as they are with rats) but they shouldn't be common. Feeding unlimited long grass (I think it's called) hay helps keep teeth in check. I never like to suggest breeders, but if there are no rescues available, it's a better option than a pet store. You should also look on online and offline classifieds for rabbits being given away and speak to your vet for suggestions. They may know of a bunny
needing rehoming or a good breeder if they see a lot of exotics. Otherwise, find a pet store that is passionate/knowledgeable. In any case, spend some time with the rabbit before adopting or buying. You can also ask your rat breeder (if you have gotten rats from one - I can't remember) for suggestions.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think chinchillas are generally more social than rabbits, so if there's no other option (they re expensive here so you don't see too many bought on an impulse like buns) a pet store may not be the worst place to get one or two. Even if you have a mix sex pair and they haven't mated, you should get one sterilized as they can breed after living together for many years not having done so. (I know that's one common misconception.)

ETA: I would think 30 degrees for a few days isn't the end of the world, you can get a granite tile and use a fan to help cool them, it's when you get to 33-35 degrees and it goes on for weeks.
 
victoria said:
MissGuardian said:
Chins are oNLY found in pet stores here..
Most bunnies are from pet stores, and almost all of them has teeth issues :(
And yes it was dwarfs I meant.

I would like to rescue tho, but there are barely rescues for dogs and cats here.. There are none for other animals at all :(

We had some huge ones(is there a breed called blue wiener or something similar?).. They nearly broke my back when lifting them :giggle:

Are there no companion rabbit breeders? There must be... try to see if you can find a show in your area. Tooth issues are always a possibility with rabbits (as they are with rats) but they shouldn't be common. Feeding unlimited long grass (I think it's called) hay helps keep teeth in check. I never like to suggest breeders, but if there are no rescues available, it's a better option than a pet store. You should also look on online and offline classifieds for rabbits being given away and speak to your vet for suggestions. They may know of a bunny
needing rehoming or a good breeder if they see a lot of exotics. Otherwise, find a pet store that is passionate/knowledgeable. In any case, spend some time with the rabbit before adopting or buying. You can also ask your rat breeder (if you have gotten rats from one - I can't remember) for suggestions.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think chinchillas are generally more social than rabbits, so if there's no other option (they re expensive here so you don't see too many bought on an impulse like buns) a pet store may not be the worst place to get one or two. Even if you have a mix sex pair and they haven't mated, you should get one sterilized as they can breed after living together for many years not having done so. (I know that's one common misconception.)

ETA: I would think 30 degrees for a few days isn't the end of the world, you can get a granite tile and use a fan to help cool them, it's when you get to 33-35 degrees and it goes on for weeks.
I don't know of any, and they tend to be hard to find.. Mostly it's "i wanted to breed because the babies are sooo cute!".. Tooth issues seems to be very common.. Probably because most of the bunnies come from kindergardens where the bunnies are bred all the time.. For the joy of the kids.... I know of a few pet stores that usually take good care of their animals(including putting a hamster in a cage big enough for rats if there is room)..
 
MissGuardian said:
victoria said:
HA! I have no idea what this says but I think I found a rabbit rescue lead for you!

http://www.kanin.org/
It has a lot of info at least :D
No shelter things listed close to me tho(7+ hours away only)

You never know, they may have a local foster home or be willing to travel. It seems (from the pictures) to have a lot of really good ideas and products available.
 
I'm not 100% sure, but I think chinchillas are generally more social than rabbits, so if there's no other option (they re expensive here so you don't see too many bought on an impulse like buns) a pet store may not be the worst place to get one or two
Yeah, chins are pretty social. At least 2 would be ideal. Aren't pet stores different in Europe? I was under the impression that they were significantly more ethical then in North America...I may be wrong (obviously you would know better then I would lol)
 
Bamboo said:
I'm not 100% sure, but I think chinchillas are generally more social than rabbits, so if there's no other option (they re expensive here so you don't see too many bought on an impulse like buns) a pet store may not be the worst place to get one or two
Yeah, chins are pretty social. At least 2 would be ideal. Aren't pet stores different in Europe? I was under the impression that they were significantly more ethical then in North America...I may be wrong (obviously you would know better then I would lol)

I should have said two, I do know they do well in pairs and groups. I really do want some one day, I just cannot make that commitment right now with all the pets I have.
 
Bamboo said:
I'm not 100% sure, but I think chinchillas are generally more social than rabbits, so if there's no other option (they re expensive here so you don't see too many bought on an impulse like buns) a pet store may not be the worst place to get one or two
Yeah, chins are pretty social. At least 2 would be ideal. Aren't pet stores different in Europe? I was under the impression that they were significantly more ethical then in North America...I may be wrong (obviously you would know better then I would lol)
That really depends.. How are they over there? There aren't any feeders here(technically.. Some sell rats as snake food anyway.. Even if it's illegal :redhot: )
 
victoria said:
I haven't read all the comments, so forgive me if I repeat something.

Rabbits DO NOT need to go outside, they do need time out of their pen/cage daily. They can go outside, but they should be secure and supervised as they are prey to many animals and often die of a heart attack before the predator actually gets them. They like to explore new areas and need exercise. They also need quite a bit of cage space and *most* cages are too small for them so a pen is often better. They can be finicky about being held but are not as fragile as it may seem and I think they are far easier to pick up and hardier than guinea pigs. A lot of people form really great bonds with their rabbits (lone rabbits or bonded pairs) , much like with cats and dogs and they can live 8-10 years if well cared for. Larger breed rabbits (Flemish giants and other smaller giant breeds) tend to be more affectionate but live much shorter lives.

Guinea pigs are fun to watch and love to be fed, but many do not like being handled to much in the way rabbits do. They do live longer than rats but they are more prone to health issues than rabbits and there's a much higher risk of post-op complications with them than other rodents/rabbits. They are ground dwellers so they need horizontal space rather than vertical and can be pretty noisy at times, so not the best pet to keep in the bedroom for a light sleeper. (Although, it may be that they only get worked up at feeding time so it may not be an issue.)

Ferrets are very similar to rats in many respects but they need more out time, are generally sneakier, and more destructive. They do live longer than rats, but have their fair share of health issues - especially if sterilized too young. Most ferrets here are sterilized by the breeder/mill before getting to the pet store because it reduces their smell (they do smell more than rats and rabbits) and females get a fatal anemia if they go into heat and don't get pregnant. Because some people want to get them out and sold as soon as possible they are sterilized too young and have a tendency to develop adrenal gland disease so if you can get them from a source that sterilizes them later that would help reduce the risk. Also, ferrets are strict carnivores and sensitive to diet changes (and poor diet) so it's important to do your research ahead of time and find a good source of food for them. I find ferret poo is pretty gross too - similar to cat poo but they are not as easily trained as cats.

Chinchillas are also in the rodent family (not sure how popular they are in Norway) and generally MUCH more social with humans than degus. They can live 15-20 years if well cared for. They are also herbivores and I think may get a pair when my rabbits pass. They tend to cause fewer allergies and have less of an odour than rabbits/GPs and you could keep them in a Suite Royal. Their diet is a bit more restricted than GPs/buns in terms of what types of veggies they can have. Oh, and they are SO soft and don't mind cuddling. They are much more nocturnal than rats and rabbits I believe.

Gerbils are like rats in the sense that they adjust their schedule to ours. They are not as prone to respiratory issues as other rodents and tend to be prolific chewers. Smaller and more fragile than rats, they tend to be more affectionate/social than hamsters but not as interactive as rats. They can be kept in groups and can be really fun to watch, especially if you keep them in a tank where you can see them dig tunnels. (Tanks are suitable habitats for them.)

ETA: Just read through the comments and I forgot to add litter habits for most of them. GP are almost impossible to litter train (from what I hear - my boss has 5 and she's had many more over the years); bunnies, especially if fixed, are fairly easy to train; ferrets can usually be trained but tend to be sloppy and poo over the edge of their box, etc.; chins can be litter trained, especially for pee; and gerbils not so much (from what I remember as a kid) and tend to poo on you as they walk over you.

Rabbits just need free range time (protect your cords!) not to be taken for walks. They also should be sterilized, they are much less likely to be aggressive/territorial that way or spray.

I somehow missed this post, probably because I was logged on on my phone.
Thanks for lots of info!

Rabbits: What exavtly do you mean by pen? http://www.halterandlead.no/images/hund/easy_grind.jpg something like this, or am I way off?
As long as they don´t have to live outside, it´s okay. It wouldn´t be an issue to be with them outside(if we for once have decent weather..)

Guinea pigs: The gp´s I´ve dealt with has mostly only been noisy when feeding or spooked.. But I haven´t really been much with them over the course of a day.

Ferrets: I don´t really think ferrets are an option for me. Both because they are carnivores, but also because they are fairly hard to get(not even pet stores sell them here :shock: ), and i don´t feel up to the task at this point.

Chinchillas: I don´t really know either. I know of two people who has had chins, with completely different experiences.. One got hers tame(I think she only had one), and one had two and they were pretty much monsters.. Impossible to tame, chewed up the entire appartment etc.. I´ve seen they are starting to get chins in one pet store now, but that´s pretty much it.. I think they cost ~180-360$ each, so they are not as prone to impuls buyers maybe? I know they don´t get handled.. at all tho..(I´ve worked there - before they got chins). They can possibly be an option, but they might live a bit too long(since I have NO experience in them, and still live at home with no income except disability thing). I will read more about them and check them more out tho.. Do they tend to be at the vets a lot? My mother don´t like them(but that don´t really say much, since she don´t like rats, GP´s, hamsters or anything else either)..

Gerbils I actually do like gerbils, but I find them a bit too small..
I´d prefer a pet that can run free in my room that I can actually find if needed :giggle:

So far it seems like it´s GP´s, bunnies or chins that I need to look more closely into. Both with care, and if I can get decent food etc. I have a good rat vet, would he also be good with other rodents? I think he´s specialized in rodents, but thought I´d ask anyway.
 
I´m planning on going to the pet store(s) tomorrow to see if I can get any info/meet some of the kinds of animals..
Since they will have to be my main source for supplies etc, and is the easiest way for me to meet the species..
There are two(ok 3-4, but I don´t normally go to the rest) that do their best to take good care of their pets.. Some of them don´t even sell pine bedding, and spend time with the animals..

How much do bunnies smell?(when spayed/neutered)
My father had bunnies when he was younger(which was never separated by gender, so it was a disaster.. this is LONG ago tho), and he said they stink and that I shouldn´t get any..
 
This is what I mean by a pen. Bunnies don't tend to smell very much as long as you clean up after them. I use Yesterday's News in their litter box (by far the best litter for bunnies IMO) and it does a great job of neutralizing odours. It has to be cleaned daily (I have a dwarf foster and I can get away with doing her's every other day) as does any pee they get out of the box (my own bunnies can be difficult at times but the foster that was not at all trained at the shelter has never gone outside her box - figure that out) but if you do that there's no issues with smell. You need to protect wooden floors with something because bunny pee can stain (not if it's cleaned within a few hours) and they need a soft area to rest so they don't get sores on the hocks of their feet. Bunnies are a lot easier/

The lifespan for chinchillas may be so short because they're not well cared for. They are sensitive to high temperatures and you need to be careful about hazards in the cage because of their feet (they have no nails) but I think it's reasonable to expect a chinchilla to live 12-15 years if well cared for. I think the 20 year life span is like the 3 year lifespan of a rat - it's possible but some of it is luck. I don't think they need to go to the vet a lot in the same way that most rats do.

A good rat vet would probably be good with all of these animals. It would be pretty odd for a vet to specialize only in rats. All three of the species you're considering require pellets, hay, and vegetables to lead healthy lives. Oxbow makes great diets for all three if you can get your hands on them. (Hay and (obviously) veggies would probably be much cheaper if locally sourced.)
 
victoria said:
This is what I mean by a pen. Bunnies don't tend to smell very much as long as you clean up after them. I use Yesterday's News in their litter box (by far the best litter for bunnies IMO) and it does a great job of neutralizing odours. It has to be cleaned daily (I have a dwarf foster and I can get away with doing her's every other day) as does any pee they get out of the box (my own bunnies can be difficult at times but the foster that was not at all trained at the shelter has never gone outside her box - figure that out) but if you do that there's no issues with smell. You need to protect wooden floors with something because bunny pee can stain (not if it's cleaned within a few hours) and they need a soft area to rest so they don't get sores on the hocks of their feet. Bunnies are a lot easier/

The lifespan for chinchillas may be so short because they're not well cared for. They are sensitive to high temperatures and you need to be careful about hazards in the cage because of their feet (they have no nails) but I think it's reasonable to expect a chinchilla to live 12-15 years if well cared for. I think the 20 year life span is like the 3 year lifespan of a rat - it's possible but some of it is luck. I don't think they need to go to the vet a lot in the same way that most rats do.

A good rat vet would probably be good with all of these animals. It would be pretty odd for a vet to specialize only in rats. All three of the species you're considering require pellets, hay, and vegetables to lead healthy lives. Oxbow makes great diets for all three if you can get your hands on them. (Hay and (obviously) veggies would probably be much cheaper if locally sourced.)

That was pretty much what I meant, I just couldn´t find any pictures of it(I didn´t remember the english term). Wouldn´t a pen be a lot cheaper than a regular cage? The biggest cages I´ve seen here(Don´t know if they are actually big enough or not) cost about 3-500$ I would assume(don´t have the prices in my head).
Both vets that are decent/good with rats carry Oxbow, so that shouldn´t be much of a problem then. Hay I can get pretty much everywhere(It is probably a difference in quality, but odds are at least someone will have good ones).

Can bunnies be alone at all? I´m mostly asking because I´m confused by times to spay/neuter, difficulty in introing etc.. I don´t want to get in over my head and fail.. I will be checking more out and talking to people and such of course.
 
Bunnies can be alone or in pairs. Mixed sex pairs work best (it's very hard to have same sex pairs) and it's hard to get a trio living together happily. That being said, bunnies seem to do pretty well in large groups in barns or other similar environments but that's not applicable here. Sterilization is important whether they are alone, in mixed sex pairs, or any other arrangement. Most bunnies are really sweet before sexual maturity but can get territorial or aggressive when they reach that age. My bonded pair LOVE each other and I couldn't imagine having just one but if you spend lots of time with them it wouldn't be cruel to have a lone bunny. Intros are pretty similar to rat intros but many tend to go really well and quickly. When they don't, it may be that a bunny needs some convincing or that they just aren't meant to be - there's lots on info on the House Rabbits Society sites. Another reason why it's better to adopt from a rescue - many will take an animal back if bonding it to a current pet doesn't work out. (Most male-female intros seem to go really well and really quickly form what I have seen with bunnies adopted from the shelter.) Once bunnies are bonded they should not be split.

Pens are often much cheaper than cages and are much more flexible (can be changed to suit a room) as well.
 
victoria said:
Bunnies can be alone or in pairs. Mixed sex pairs work best (it's very hard to have same sex pairs) and it's hard to get a trio living together happily. That being said, bunnies seem to do pretty well in large groups in barns or other similar environments but that's not applicable here. Sterilization is important whether they are alone, in mixed sex pairs, or any other arrangement. Most bunnies are really sweet before sexual maturity but can get territorial or aggressive when they reach that age. My bonded pair LOVE each other and I couldn't imagine having just one but if you spend lots of time with them it wouldn't be cruel to have a lone bunny. Intros are pretty similar to rat intros but many tend to go really well and quickly. When they don't, it may be that a bunny needs some convincing or that they just aren't meant to be - there's lots on info on the House Rabbits Society sites. Another reason why it's better to adopt from a rescue - many will take an animal back if bonding it to a current pet doesn't work out. (Most male-female intros seem to go really well and really quickly form what I have seen with bunnies adopted from the shelter.) Once bunnies are bonded they should not be split.

Pens are often much cheaper than cages and are much more flexible (can be changed to suit a room) as well.
If I found a bonded pair, I would not split them.. But as I've said before, there are no resques here, so if it didn't work out, I couldn't send it back.. That's why I'm wondering about a single bunny.. At least to start with..
How much would a lot of time mean by the way?(just want as much info as possible so I'll do the right choice).
 
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