Caresheets (Lizards)

[Bamboo]

Size: Adults usually grow to be between 7-12 inches. Females are generally larger then males.

Housing: The enclosure needs to be large enough to give the RES plenty of room to swim around. The rule is: the minimum enclosure size can be found be measuring the size of the turtle in question. For every inch of turtle, there should be at least 10 gallons of enclosure. (ie: a 5 inch turtle should have a minimum 50 gallon tank and a 12 inch turtle should have a 120 gallon tank and so on and so forth) A basking area must be provided, so the turtle can get completely out of the water and dry itself off whenever it wants to. Hides must also be provided. You will also need a filter for the water. There are many commercially availible turtle filters, because fish filters are not strong enough for use in turtle tanks.

Substrate: Bare bottom tanks are often the best choice for turtle owners because it's easier to clean. If you really want to use a substrate, DO NOT use small aquarium gravel. It will be ingested by the turtle and will cause impaction. If you are going to use anything, use those 'river rock' type stones.

Heating: A basking spot of 88-93 degrees F should be provided and the ambient temp should be between 75-85 degrees F. The water temp should be between 72-76 degrees F for adults (for yearlings the water temp should be 78-80 degrees F)

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off or 8hr on/16hr off photoperiod should be provided. UV lighting is required for this species.

Humidity: Humidity should be manitained around 70-75%

Feeding:[spoiler:2nm4jtek]Snails, feeder guppies, earthworms, and silkworms can be offered as a source of protein. Dandelions greens, romaine lettuce, and aqautic plants such as water nasturtium, duckweed and java fern are excellent staple greens. Brine shrimp, blood worms, zucchini, carrots and beans can be given a treats, but shouldn't be staples. Turtle pellets should generally be avoided all together. *Note: Yearling turtles require a diet of 50% protein and 50% greens. Adult turtles require a diet of 15-25% protein and 85-75% greens* Cuttle bones made for birds can be offered to turtles of all ages as a source of calcium.[/spoiler:2nm4jtek]

 

[ryelle]

We have two Blue Tongued Skinks at college. We got to handle them the other week. They are so awsome

 

[Moon]

We have two Blue Tongued Skinks at college. We got to handle them the other week. They are so awsome

I am so jealous right now...

 

[Bamboo]

I know I talked about Beardies on another thread but I figured it was time to make up a caresheet for them, seeing as they're one of the most commonly kept lizards.

Size: Adults will grow to be between 15-25 inches.

Housing: Hatchlings can be kept in a minimum 20 gallon tank. Have the adult tank ready...beardies grow FAST. An absolute minimum for adults is 40 gallons, but they really should be in a 60-90 gallon. More space is appreciated by the active guys. Make sure you give your dragon lots of places to climb. The are very adept climbers and love to be up high. In their native Australia, they are often seen sitting up on fence posts, basking in the sun. They also love sitting on shoulders and heads lol.

Substrate: Paper towel, newspaper, and playsand (only once they reach their adult size) are acceptable substrates.

Heating: A basking area of 95-110 degrees F should be provided, while the cool side ambient temp should be around 80 degrees F. Nighttime temps can drop as low as 60-65 degrees, but no lower.

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off or 8hr on/16hr off photoperiod should be provided. UV is recommended.

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained between 30-50% (I recommend changing the water everyday. I also recommend bathing your dragon once a week for about 20 minutes. The water should only be up to the dragon's chest, so it can stand on the bottom...It shouldn't be forced to swim for 20 minutes, as that would exuast it. By bathing it regularly you know that your dragon is hydrated and it also helps them with shedding. Watch their toes for stuck sheds. Many reptiles lose toes because stuck sheds constriced blood flow to the toes, so they fall off.)

Feeding:Dragons are omnivores, so you can feed them lots of things. Some good fruits and veggies are: Romaine lettuce, kale, squash, green beans, peas, zucchini, parsley, red cabbage, radiccio, melon, berries, grapes and apple. Iceberg lettuce should not be used as a staple, just because it has almost no nutritional value, but it can be used to add water and fibre to your dragon's diet. Also, bananas are a good RARE treat, but they shouldn't be given too often, because they are really high in phosphorus. Also NEVER feed your dragon fireflies...they are FATAL to dragons! In the summer, you can also add dandelion greens and clover from your yard or another "clean" source. Like with all other fruits and veggies, they should be thoroughly washed before given to your dragon. [spoiler:1lok4u54]For their protein sources, dragons can be feed crickets, silk worms, butter worms, wax worms, meal worms and superworms. Some people feed adult dragons other sources of whole food occasionally, but they should not be given too often. All fruits and veggie should be very thinly sliced or shredded and all prey items should be approprietly sized. All food items should be dusted with a calcium powder, and occasionlly a multi-vitamin powder.[/spoiler:1lok4u54]
Something to be taken into consideration when thinking about getting a beardie is brumation. Brumation is often unknown to new dragon owners and can be scary when you don't know what it is. It is, essentially, hibernation. Not all dragons do it, but many do. They often do it in the summertime because, on the other side of the world, in Australia where their from it's wintertime. No matter how many generations have gone by in captivity since they've been in their homeland, their internal clock is still set on Australian time. Many dragons become noticably grumpy before going into brumation. They also become alot slower and lose intrest in food. They will spend most of their time sleeping in the cool end of the enclosure. They will start to ignore everything, including you. It will be very difficult to wake them up. Some people try to stop the dragon from brumating. I always let mine do it. Once they've made up their mind, you can't do anything about it anyway. Make sure they poop before going into full blown brumaton, though. If they don't it will rot in their bodies and cause infection. That is also why you should NEVER force feed them. They know what they're doing, so just let them do their thing. When mine wnt into full brumation, he would go deep into sleep for weeks. But they all do it diffrently. The most important thing that I did for my boy while he was brumating was soaking him once every week, same as when he was awake. 20 minutes in lukewarm (most people could tell you that putting a cold-blooded animal in cold water is a bad idea, but alot people don' know that hot water is just as bad) MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE HEAD ABOVE THE WATER. Same as before, it just make sure that the dragon is hydrated. My boy never woke up when I bathed him, but some do. Make sure that the dragon is dry before you put him back in his enclosure. And always put him back where he was. When mine woke up he was always very grumpy, like he was before brumation. (You will probably get alot of "beard" during this time lol) There was also alot of head-bobbing because, in the wild, when they wake up it's time to mate. I don't know about females, but my boy would just be irritable and cranky for a week or two. Just ignore the behavior. It will go away on it's own.

As far as temperment goes, all dragons are individuals. In general, I've found them to be curious, interesting and fun little guys to watch and interact with. (and yes, I did copy and paste from my earlier post...it's late and I'm tired lol. Here's the link to my original beardie post, in case anyone feels like reading throught the whole thing in it's entirety: http://www.jorats.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=7347&p=214950#p214950)

 

[Bamboo]

Size: Adults usually grow to between 6-8 inches

Housing: A minimum 30 gallon tank would house a colony of 3 or 4 anoles. (Note: Males are extremely territorial, so no more then one should be kept per enclosure. Also, make sure all tank mates are around the same size to reduce risk of cannabalism)

Substrate: Newspaper, paper towel and bark mulch (that's to big for the anoles to ingest) are all good substrates.

Heating: A basking spot of 85 degrees F should be provided. The warm side ambient temp should be around 80 degrees F and the cool side ambient temp should be around 75 degrees F.

Lighting: A photoperiod of 12hrs on/12hr off or 10hrs on/14hrs off should be provided.

Humidity: Mist once a day to maintain humidity around 50-60%. If the water bowl provides enough humidity, reduce misting frequency as needed.

Feeding:[spoiler:kcr944oc]Feed appropriately sized crickets, wax worms, mealworms, silk worms and earthworms. Every other meal should be dusted with calcium. Some anoles will eat ripe fruit, but some won't touch it.[/spoiler:kcr944oc]

 

[Bamboo]

I should have mentioned this sooner, but I completely forgot: Always check your local bylaws before aquiring a new animal! Sometimes specific species are prohibited and sometimes animals are banned by size (for example: anything that reaches an adult size larger then x(insert unit of measurement here) is prohibited) And don't assume that because you've seen something in your local pet store that it's legal in your area...Around here, it's perfectly legal to sell prohibited animals as long as you don't own them. Lastly, another reason to always check is because sometimes animals you would never expect aren't allowed (For example, here in the City of Ottawa, hedgehogs are technically prohibited)

That being said, you can usually get away with owning prohibited animals (not that I would know :wink: ), as long as you don't go around parading it around. Just be aware that I do not advise ignoring your local bylaws, so if you choose to go ahead with it, you are doing so at your own risk.

 

[sausage4ever]

I love the Ackie in your siggie!!

 

[Bamboo]

Size: Adults will have a wingspan of approx. 4 1/2 ft.

Housing: Gatorkookamunga's require large open spaces, with many places to perch. They also require access to a body of water large enough for them to completely submerge and and swim around underwater in.

Substrate: Branches and water

Heating: A basking spot of 125 degrees F should always be provided. The ambient temp should be around 90-100 degrees F. The nighttime temps can drop significantly. Water should be heated to around 75 degrees F.

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off photoperiod should be provided. Natural sunlight is required

Humidity: High. Misting is ideal, but do so at your own risk.

Feeding: Whatever it wants, whenever it wants it :wink:

This unique and highly sought after animal hails from somewhere between the Americas and Australia. There has been speculation recently that these beautiful creatures are actually native to Venus, as they seem much more responsive to a westen sunrising. They also have a very methodical way of going through their day. They sleep in the trees, but they will dive into the water as soon as they wake up. They have been known to stay underwater for several hours, after which they emerge to bask and dry off. They will often fall asleep while basking. When they wake up, they are usually quite hungry. They will find food, gorge themselves, then go back to the trees to spend the night.

Happy April Fool's Day, everyone!

 

[Moon]

LOL LOVE IT

 

[Bamboo]

I had my fun :giggle:

 

[blytherue]

Uromastyx are my dream lizard. I’ve wanted a uro for over 10 years. I have spent this time researching them and developing (in my mind) the exact setup I would want for my uro(s). I refuse to get them until I can (financially and spatially) fulfill this plan. Believe it or not, over these 10 years I still have not decided which species I would like. And there is always more to learn & think about. I think they look like adorable little dinosaurs, no?

Species: The most common uro in the pet trade is the Mali Uromastyx (Uromastyx maliensis). Other species include Algerian Leopard (Uromastyx acanthinurus acanthinurus), Banded (Uromastyx flavofasciata), Ebony (Uromastyx alfredschimdti), Egyptian (Uromastyx aegypticus), Indian (Uromastyx hardwicki), Moroccan (Uromastyx acanthinurus nigriventris), Orange Benti (Uromastyx benti (benti) ), Ornate (Uromastyx ornata), Rainbow Benti (Uromastyx benti (pseudophilbyi) ), Saharan (Uromastyx geryi), Somali (Uromastyx mcfadyeni), & Sudanese (Uromastyx ocellata). (As most of their common names refer to the region they originally hail from, I think you may have figured out…) They are native to the desert regions of Africa & the Middle East.

Size: Adult Malis average out at 13”-16” for males, 11”-14” for females. Most species reach a similar size, with a few exceptions. Indians, Bentis, Ornates, and Saharans tend to average a slightly smaller 12”, and Moroccans are slightly larger with both sexes commonly reaching 15”-16”. The largest Uromastyx species, Egyptians can reach lengths of 2-3 feet. And the two smallest species, Somalis max out at 10” & Sudanese at 11”.

Lifespan: A Uromastyx average lifespan is 12 years.

Housing: Unfortunately, most uros have a low tolerance for being housed with other uros unless reared together. Even then, adult males will become aggressive to each other and shouldn’t be kept together. Females have more success. Opposite sex pairs have the most success, but obviously that is unadvisable unless you are breeding, and they would have to be separated once the female is gravid, because she will become very aggressive. If more than one uromastyx is kept together, each should have access to separate basking, sleeping, & feeding sites.
The larger the better when it comes to cages, the minimum cage size should be 4’ long, 24” wide, 18” tall. Egyptians are an exception to this and should have a minimum 6’ long, 3’ high cage. The back and sides of the cage should not be glass, or if they are should be covered with something to deter running into or clawing at the glass.
In the cage, a basking area should be provided, a low shelter that they can duck under, and a nesting box to simulate a burrow/sleeping chamber. For a nesting box, an appropriate option is a 3 gal Rubbermaid type container half filled with 50/50 sand/potting soil, with a hole cut in the side with a flexi-tube coming out of it for them to enter or exit, but something prettier could be custom built.

Substrate: There are many options for substrate, but substrate is always tricky, because you want to avoid something that would be overly dusty, while also providing something that is safe in case it is accidentally ingested, and also something that is easy to clean. From my research, one of the most effective substrates is a high quality birdseed composed primarily of millet. It is generally odor & dust free, and it sticks to the poops, drying them and turning them into easily removed clumps. The uros can snack on the seed and any that are cracked before swallowing are digested, while seeds that remain whole pass through the uro and act as roughage.

Heating/Lighting: The uro’s basking area must reach a temperature between 110F & 120F. This can be achieved with a commercial reptile basking bulb shining over a smooth rock. The height of the bulb may need to be adjusted, but should always be high enough that the uros can’t reach it. An in-cage electric hot rock or heater should not be used due to the risk of burn to the uro, but an under-cage heating pad is ok for supplemental heat. In addition to their basking lamps, UV lamps should also be provided. The general temperature of the cage should be around 100F in the warm end of the cage and mid 80F’s in the cool end of the cage. Night temperature should be cooler, around 70F. Uros should have about a 13h “day” and 11h “night”. In the winter, a 10h “day” is acceptable.

Feeding: Uros are primarily herbivores, so their main diet consists of fresh leafy greens. You can feed a “spring mix” as long as you add other leafy greens, because there are a bit too many nutritionally devoid lettuces in a spring mix. Other greens include endive, bok choy, & mustard greens, and in limited amounts, spinach, beet greens, swiss chard, cabbage, broccoli, kale, & collard greens. They can also enjoy pea, carrots, corn, & cut green beans a couple times a week. For proper nutrition, food should be dusted with Uromastyx Dust or ground up Mazuri Tortoise Pellets. If available at your grocery, you can also give uros a human-food-grade despined cactus pad, which will last for a few days, letting them nibble away as they please.
[spoiler:2jbov06c]As a very rare treat, you can offer a superworm or two. This is a great way to lure a shy uro into bonding with you, but should not be done often, and you should always supplement calcium in their diet (food dusting) when doing so.[/spoiler:2jbov06c]

Water: Since uromastyx are desert dwellers , opportunities to drink in the wild are rare, so they are capable of producing metabolic water from their digested food. As long as the uro is eating well, it should not be dehydrated. A permanent water dish is not necessary and could be harmful as they will just walk through the water and then everything else they walk through will stick to their bellies, potentially causing infection if not caught soon enough. If you think the uro needs water, you can put some in a shallow jar lid, and place it in a corner of the cage in the early morning. They will be more likely to seek water in the early morning, since in the wild, they would be seeking dew at that time if thirsty. Uros can also be given a soak, but the water needs to be very close to their body temperature of 105F. Make sure the water level is very shallow, like ¼’’. And they should be completely dried off before being put back home. A really dehydrated uro will probably need a vet visit and to be tubed with a warmed electrolyte solution.

References: I used much of what I’ve assimilated into my own mind, but I referred to the following website’s caresheet much. I may have used some terminology, but I don’t believe I copied anything verbatim. http://www.deerfernfarms.com/ But here are some pretty pictures from their website (since google image search just turns up with their sites pictures anyway!):

Algerian Leopard

Banded

Ebony

Egyptian

Indian

Mali

Moroccan

Orange Benti

Ornate

Rainbow Benti

Saharan - Orange

Saharan - Yellow

Somali

Sudanese

 

[Bamboo]

Size: Adults will generally grow to be between 8-14 inches. Males will be noticably larger then females.

Housing: A single adult or a pair can be comfortably housed in a minimum 20 gallon tank. Add at least 5 gallons for each additional gecko. (Note: Since they are extremely territorial, never house more then one male per enclosure)

Substrate: Potting soil, peat moss, coco fibre, newspaper and paper towel are all good substrates to use for this species.

Heating: A basking spot of 90 degrees F should be provided. The ambient temp should be between 75-80 degrees F. The nighttime temp can drop as low as 60-65 degrees F, but no lower then that.

Lighting: A photoperiod of 12hrs on/12hr off or 10hrs on/14hrs off should be provided.

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained between 50-70%, but can be raised as high as 80% to help with shedding. Misting twice every day (once in the morning and once at night) is the best way to keep humidity levels at the required level.

Feeding:[spoiler:2sra2s0t]Feed appropriatly sized crickets, locusts, mealworms, waxworms, silkworms, roaches and other sources of whole food. Juveniles should be fed every day and adults should be fed every other day. Dust every other meal with a calcium supplement.[/spoiler:2sra2s0t]
It should be noted that these geckos are quite aggressive, but they are very common none the less. They will not be afraid to take on human hands, so careful handling and socialization are required. Start slow and invest in a good pair of gloves. The best way to handle an unsocialized or territorial Tokay Gecko is to place your thumb and index finger infront of it's front legs and behind it's head. This helps block it from swinging it's head around and biting you. (You palm should be on the gecko's back and your remaining fingers should be supporting the rest of the gecko's body, and should be positioned between the gecko's front and back legs. IT WILL SQUIRM AND GROWL AT YOU! Don't hold it too tight...hold it just enough so it can't bite you. Give it a few minutes. It should calm down, but it may not right away since it may take a few handling sessions...don't rush it. After about 5 minutes, whether it has calmed down or not return it to it's enclosure. Do this every day or 2, it should learn that you are not a threat and come to accept you. Eventually, you should get to the point where you can stop using the gloves, and even just hold out your hand and the gecko will climb on to come out and see you. However, it should be noted that individual animals take diffrent times to accept you: some only need a matter of days, others need months possibley even years. Also, even the most socialized of Tokay Geckos should not be considered animals that you take out and play with for extended periods of time. They can enjoy interacting with their human keeper, but exessive handling can stress the gecko out and, possibly even reverse your efforts. Get to know your animal so you can tell when it's had enough.

Just to re-iterate: Don't rush socialization! No more then 5 minutes a day when beginning socialization...any longer and you will stress it out and it will learn to resent handling even more. Once you have socialized your gecko, get to know it's personality. This way, you will be able to tell if it's intrested in interacting with you or not. You will also know when it's had enough of you. Also, it should be noted that these are very territorial animals. A lot of times, no matter how well socialized they are, they will always be defensive while their in their enclosure. Once they come out, however, they should calm down significantly.

These are amazing little geckos. However, I do recommend getting some experience before getting a Tokay. They require a lot of work, but once you get that bond of trust with them it's all worth it. And, believe me, these little guys make you work for their trust lol.

Fun Fact: Both they're common name (Tokay Gecko) and their scientific name (Gekko gecko) come from the call these geckos make. (But, thanks to they're nasty attitudes, soldiers in Vietnam gave these guys another name: the "F"-You Lizard, because that is the sound soldiers would make when they tried to play with them :lol: ) It's kind of funny that such a cute, little call comes from a lizard with such a bad attitude lol:
[youtube:2sra2s0t]<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/I0px6YFUegE&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/I0px6YFUegE&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>[/youtube:2sra2s0t]

Doesn't it sound like he's saying either "To-Kay" or "Ge-cko, Ge-cko" :mrgreen:

 

[Bamboo]

Size: Adults will grow to be between 8-12 inches long, occasionally larger.

Housing: A minimum 20 gallon will comfortably house a single adult. Add 10 gallons for each additional gecko. (Please note: Males are territorial, so never house more then one per enclosure) Lots of climbing opportunities should be provided.

Substrate: Potting soil, peat moss, bark mulch and cocofibre are all good substrates to use.

Heating: A basking spot of 90 degrees F should be provided. The warm side should be around 85 degrees F and the cool side should be around 80 degrees F. The nighttime temp can drop to 70 degrees F, but no lower.

Lighting: A photoperiod of 10hrs on/14hrs off or 12hrs on/12hrs off should be provided. UV lighting is highly recommended (Remember: "DAY" geckos are diurnal)

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained between 50-80% (Raise humidity during shedding) Mist every day or two.

Feeding:[spoiler:2h6gzt8s]Feed appropriatly sized crickets, earthworms, silkworms, wax worms, butter worms, roaches and locusts. Dust meals with calcium supplement. These geckos often eat fruit, in addition to their insect diet. Some ideal fruits to feed are papaya, mango, peaches, nectarines and kiwi. Puree before offering to the gecko(s). A little bit of honey can be added as a treat.[/spoiler:2h6gzt8s]
These geckos are amazingly beautiful, but their skin is quite delicate and can tear very easily. Because of this, unnessicary handling should be avoided.