Caresheets (Lizards)

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Bamboo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2009
Messages
1,158
Location
Ottawa, ON
OK, so this is something that I figured could be a good idea. This thread is pretty much going to be a collection of caresheets/husbandy guidelines for anybody who is looking for info, refrences or whatever about the diffrent lizard species. (This thread will just be lizards. Snakes will get their own thread because there may be pictures and I know snakes freak some people out...this way those people don't have to worry about being surprised by a picture while looking through this and the future amphibian thread. The snake thread is located here: http://www.jorats.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16531) As some of you already know I've loved reptiles my whole life, and I've been rescuing reptiles off of kijiji and similar places for about 5 years now. In that time, I've come across many, many diffrent species. Of course, I got a lot of the more common species, like Crested Geckos (Rhacodactylus ciliatus), Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius) and even Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps). But I've also had a few not so common lizards like Horned Mountain Dragons (Acantosaura Capra) and Blue Tounged Skinks (Tiliqua scincoides) and many others. I'll also include a few species that I've never personally owned, but I've heavily researched because I'd like to own them one day :mrgreen:

Please note that I am not an expert. I'm just sharing experiences and information that I've aquired over the years. Please correct me if I've gotten something wrong and feel free to add any tips and experiences that you've learned from your lizards.

(PS:Sorry for any spelling mistakes. My keyboard is dying a slow death and it seems determined to make it look like I can't spell before it finally goes lol. I try to read over eveything before I post it, but I don't always catch everything. Especially now that I'm still recovering from 3 days of Christmas and I still have several days of cleaning up before a sense of normalcy is restored just in time to be broken again by New Years lol)
 
I just though of this. I'll include a list of abbreviations and slang terms commonly used in the reptile world. Again, if I've forgotten anything, please let me know.

  • CB = Captive Born
    CBB = Captive Born and Bred
    CH = Captive Hatched
    WC = Wild Caught
    Cham = Chameleon
    Chewie = Rhacodactylus chahoua
    CWD = Chinese Water Dragon
    F# = Term used to determine generation in genetics and selective breeding (F1 = First generation, F2 = Second generation, and so on)
    Ig, Iggy, Iggies = Iguana(s)
    MBD = Metabolic Bone Disease
    HMD = Horned Mountain Dragon (Acanthosaura capra)
    Rhacs = Geckos of the Rhacodactylus family
    UTH = Under Tank Heat
    SFE = Stupid Feeding Error (a bite)
    ssp. = sub-species
    UVB = Ultra Violet Bulbs
    CHE = Ceramic Heat Emitter
    RI = Respiratory Infection (but you guys already know that :wink: )

    Impaction = When a piece of substrate is ingested and blocks the intestines. It is often fatal, however it can be treated if caught in the early stages. But an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure: Just don't feed your animals on loose substrate (such as wood chips, bark mulch, sand etc.) Either use a bowl or plate, or feed the animal(s) in a separate rubbermaid bin or box or something

    Amel = Amelanistic: Lacks darkening pigmantation (albino)
    Anery = Anerythristic: Lacks reddish pigmentation
    Axanthic = Lacks yellowing pigmentation
    Hypo = Hypomelanistic: Reduced melanin
    T- = Incapable of producing tyrosinase, a melanin synthesizing enzyme
    T+ = Capable of producing tyrosinase, a melanin synthesizing enzyme
    Het = Heterozygous: Having two different alleles for a single trait
    PH = Possible Het.
    DPH = Double Possible Het.
    CoDom = Co-Dominant gene(s)

    Diurnal = Active during the day
    Nocturnal = Active during the night
    Crepuscular = Active primarily at sunrise and sunset

    Arboreal = Lives primarily in trees. Height and climbing areas are much more important then floorspace for arboreal species.
    Semi-arboreal = Lives both in trees and on the ground. Both floor space and height for climbing should be provided for these species.
    Terrestrial = Lives primarily on or in the ground. Floor space is much more important then height. Many of these species also need a large amount of loose substrate to burrow in.

    Oviparous = Lays eggs
    Ovoviviparous = Gives birth to live young

A note about calcium supplementation: Unless otherwise stated, prey items should be dusted with a calcium supplement, and prefferabley a multivitamin as well. (Frequency will be stated according to specific species) There are 2 types of calcium supplementation. Plain calcium and calcium with added vitamin D3. The body cannot metabolize calcium without D3. If you are using UV lighting, you will not need Ca+D3, because UV light makes the body create it's own D3. If you aren't using UV, you MUST use Ca+D3 otherwise the calcium will not be absorbed into the body. Avoid calcium supplements that have added phosphorus, because phosphorus suppressed the metabolism of calcium. Also, if the species is herbavorous, omnivorous or frugivorous limit the amount of bananas that is offered to once or twice a month, because they are naturally very high in phosphorus.

Since all reptiles are ecothermic (cold-blooded) a temprature gradiant is required within the enclosure. This is achieved by making one side the "warm side" and the other the "cool side". This allows the animal to thermoregulate, so when they feel too cold the move to the warm side, then when they are warm enough they go back the cool side and so on. At least 2 hides should be provided in every enclosure (one in each temperature zone). The basking area should be locatd in the warm side of the enclosure.

Also note that the basking temps are surface temperatures under the basking lamp or heat source. Baskng areas are critical for digesting food. If the temps aren't high enough, the body will not be able to digest their food properly and in serious cases, the foodmay start to rot inside the body causing a huge infection.

Also, I'll put all the "Feeding" information in spoilers unless the animal being discussed is completely herbavorous. If this is still unacceptable, mods please let me know and I'll replace the feeding info with "Please PM me." I know many people are don't like hearing about what feeders (both rodent and insect) are used for and I respect that.

Note: A water bowl large enough for soaking should ALWAYS be availible within the enclosure. Personally, I recommend those glass casserole dishes. They're big enough for they animals to soak, long enough that the water doesn't get too deep, and heavy-bottomed so they won't be tipped over. Ceramic dog bowls, litter boxes or water dishes specifically made for reptiles are also poplular options.

"Appropriatly sized" insects, means that the insect is no larger then the space between the reptiles eyes. To feed insects that are to large could cause impaction, which could cause death.

Unless otherwise stated, males should not be housed together. It is possible to raise to males together from birth and have them live peacefully but this is much more the exception then the rule. Females can almost always live together and a male can live quite happily with females. However some species should be kept individually.
 
Monitors are my favorite lizards, and possibly my favorite animal EVER. They are just so cool. They're incredibley intellegent and it's been said that they have "mammalian personalities". You look into their eyes and you can see that they have an amazing sense of sentience. They are constantly learning from each other, their surroundings and you. Aries, a Savannah that I had a few years ago originally would try to get out of his enclosure by digging down to the bottom when he wanted out. Less then a week after he came to me, he stopped doing this and instead would try to slide the glass door open, because he had watched me and learned that that's the way out. (He had been kept in a way to small fish tank before he came to me, so he had never seen sliding glass doors before, and it still only took him a few days to learn how they work lol)

Alright, on to the caresheet:

Natural History and etymology: As their name suggests V. Exanthematicus originate from the savannahs of Africa, so that should tell you a little bit about the kind of heat they require. Their scientific name, comes from the greek word exanthema, which means erruption. This reffers to the bumpy scales along the lizards spine. They are also called Bosc's Monitor after their discover, Louis Bosc.

Size: Savs are a medium-sized monitor, usually ranging from 3.5 - 4 ft.

Housing: Young Savs can be housed in a 40 gallon tank but have your adult ready, because these guys grow FAST. Adult Savs need an enclosure that is at least 6 ft Lx2 ft Wx 2 ft H, but bigger is always better especially with monitors. More height is especially beneficial, because you can add at least 1 ft of susbstate so the animal can dig. Stay away from screen and mesh, because these allow heat to escape and Sav claws can easily scratch through them. It's much more cost effective and just easier in general to build your own enclosure. There are many plans and designs availible. As always, at least 2 hides should be provided (one in each temp zone) so the animal doesn't have to chose between feeling comfortable temperature-wise and feeling secure.

Substrate: Aspen wood chips (Not Pine or Cedar), forest bark and pea gravel are acceptable. Organic potting or top soil (no additives) mixed with playsand (a 50/50 mix) is the best substrate because it allows for digging burrows. I would also advise against astro-turf and reptile carpet because claws can get caught too easily. Many lizards have lost toes and claws by getting them caught.

Heat: Savs should be provided with a basking spot of 110-120 degrees F. (Note that this is a surface temp) The ambient temp on the warm side of the enclosure can range from 85-95 degrees F and the cool side can be 70-80 degrees F. Night temps should not drop below 65-70 degrees F.

Lighting: Savs should be provided with a 12 hr on/12 hr off photo period. There is much debate about wheather UV light should be provided or not. I always use UV and I would encourage everyone else to as well. UV lighting is a lot more important to monitors and all reptiles then it would seem. Here's a great video that details just how important proper lighting is: http://www.exo-terra.com/flash/movies/lighting_en.php

Feeding: [spoiler:2t9wu61u]Hatchlings can be fed crickets, earthworms and various other types of feeder insects. Adults can be fed roaches, apple snails, diffrent types of crustaceans and hard-boiled eggs, in addition to the staple diet of whole food sources. A healthy monitor should not refuse food.[/spoiler:2t9wu61u]

Water should always be provided. Ideally the bowl should be large enough for the monitor to soak. The should also be heavy bottomed so they don't get tipped over. Monitors often defecate in their water so it should be changed and cleaned eveyday. (The best kind of water bowl are glass casserole dishes.)

Savs are often easily tamed. In fact, many claim that their savs are "puppy-dog tame." These guys have such personality, it's awesome. They are also fairly cheap and readily availible, which is a mixed blessing and curse. Many people buy them without realizing how big they get and the amount of care they require. Also, many Savs are WC and imported. As a result, they are often sick and full of parasites, such as mites. If possible, get a CBB animal. You will pay more upfront, but in the long run it will be worth it.

Oh! I should also metion that, if you are planning on getting a Sav, while you are (hopefully) doing some research you may come across this person called kaffir2 or danceswithsavs, and/or people who support her. DO NOT LISTEN TO ANYTHING THESE PEOPLE SAY!!! These people are practicing animal cruelty and hide behind the excuse that it is "taming". Their whole method is based on not providing proper husbandry (thus making the animals tired and slow, which looks like the animal is just "tame") They claim that the animals don't actually need the proper tempuratures, as long as they have access to a radiator or a (not warm enough) heat lamp. In their opinion, the climate of Vancouver Island is close enough the climate of the Savannah, so they don't actually "need" to provide proper husbandry :roll: This is not even the worst part: They also systematically exhaust and half-drown their animals. They fill up a bath tub and let the animal swim around, with no access to a way out of the water. They leave the animal to exhaust itself and start to drown. After the animal starts to drown, they finally take the animal out of the water, so the monitor will recognize them as the person who "saved" them and be loyal to them. At least two animals refused to become "tame" enough so they just let them drown. Who knows how many more have died like this...Here's their youtube channel, to help you recognize them. http://www.youtube.com/user/kaffir2 They are banned from most reputable forums, but they are still out there. Don't let the "nice, little old lady" angle fool you. They are "suck-up" artists. They act all nice and sweet on the outside but don't be fooled. They are cruel people and as soon as you even suggest that there is a way other then theirs you will be added to their "list" and you will be spammed with hate-mail and profanity that rivals that of any angry teenager out there. They have sent abusive and threatening emails to people's homes and workplaces. They've even attempted to have people arrested, by making false accusations to the police. (None of their allegations have been true, and therefore no one has been arrested) They have been heavily critisized by monitor experts all over the world, but they're convinced that everyone is just jealous of their "genius discovery"...yeah...that's it :roll: :redhot:

Anyway, just avoid them at all costs. Savs are awesome animals, and deserve to be treated properly. If you Make sure their needs are taken care of, you won't need to starve them of proper care and hafl-drown them to gain their loyalty...and trust me, it's much more rewarding to have an animal's loyalty that you earned rather then beat into them.
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*Note: None of these pictures are mine. They were collected from Google.*
Edit: I found a list of all the known "alter egos" of danceswithsavs/kaffir2:
  • Danceswithsavs
    kaffir2
    kaffir3
    Juan Gelt
    essentialw
    gabb13
    Geeckos
    mentch
    gutbuckets
    Alistercrawly
    drgrey
    greycz
    Mithridates
    Ray Jingardon
 
Natural Range: B&W's are found in South America, ranging from Brazil to Argentina to Paraguay.

Size: Adult B&W's generally reach an adult length of around 4ft, but 5ft is not uncommon.

Housing: Hatchlings can be housed in a 20 gallon aquarium but as always, have the adult enclosure ready because they grow fast. A single adult requires at least a 6ftLx3ftWx3ftH enclosure. A pair or trio would require a minimum 8ftLx4ftWx4ftH enclosure.

Substrate: Cypress or eucalyptus mulch, orchid bark, forest bark, etc are all suitable substrates.

Heating: A basking spot of 95-100 degrees F, but it should never go above 110 degrees F. The cool side of the enclosure should be around 70 degrees F.

Lighting: Tegus require UV lighting! A photo period of 12hrs on/12hrs off should be provided.

Humidity: Humidity should be no lower then 60% and no higher then 80%

Feeding:[spoiler:1s2b5bcp]Tegus can eat a variety of whole prey items. They can eat: Superworms, silkworms, waxworms, butterworms, roaches, snails, hard-boiled eggs, fresh fish and crustaceans, cooked lamb, chicken and lean beef and other sources of whole food[/spoiler:1s2b5bcp]

Tegus are carnivores, but they can and will eat fruits and vegetables, if introduced to them at a young age. Some of the best things to offer are: seedless grapes, cantelopes, honeydew, watermelon, mango, kiwi, acorn squash, butternut squash, parsnip alfalfa, green peas, bell peppers, collard greens, dandelion greens, and turnip greens.

Cage aggression can sometimes become a problem for tegu owners. This is when tegus assosiate their owner opening the enclosure with food, so they become aggressive towards the owner because they are expecting food. The best way to prevent this from happening is to feed your tegu in a seperate "feeding bin". This way thet learn that they only get food when the go in the feeding bin, and they don't expect food everytime you open the enclosure. However, in general Tegus are naturally tame, gentle creatures and very rewarding to keep.
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*Pictures were collected from Google*
 
These guys are very common in the pet trade and are a favorite of both beginner and advanced keepers. They are easy to find and hand-tame quickly. They can even be taught to eat out of your hands. Leos always look like they're having a good time lol. They are found throughout Northwest India, Pakistan, Afganistan to Eastern Iran.

Size: Adults grow to be between 18-24 cms.

Housing: An enclosure of 30in Lx18in Wx18in H will comfortably house a small colony of 3 or 4 geckos. (Note: Males are typically very aggressive towards other males, so they should not be housed together. However, a male will be very happy living with females)

Substrate: Paper towel, newspaper and similar solid substrates are recommended.

Lighting: Leos should be provided with either a 12hr on/12hr off or 8hr on/16hr off photoperiod. UV lighting is alays preffered.

Heating: The basking area should be between 86-96 degrees F. The ambient temp in the warm side should be around 82 degrees F and the cool side should be around 78 degrees F. Night time temps should not drop below 68 degrees F.

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained at around 45-50% (A humid hide lined with sphagnaum moss is always recommended, especially during sheds)

Feeding:[spoiler:14iawj75]Leos are insectivores and can be fed a variety of feeder insects, such as: crickets, mealworms, waxworms, locusts, earthworms, silkworms, and butterworms. It is important to keep the diet varied, because if fed one type of food for an extended period of time, leos can become "addicted" to that food source and may refuse to eat anything else. This isn't a problem if they get hooked on crickets, but if they get hooked on something expensive like locusts or butterworms. Prey items should be dusted with a calcium supplement every other meal and occasionaly a multivitamin supplement.[/spoiler:14iawj75]
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*Images were found on Google*
 
o_O leopard gecko... i always see them, and want one! well mostly my boyfriend used to want one... but they're beautiful. but i like to just watch them from afar. rattakisses and puppy dogs are enough for me!
 
Crested Geckos are awesome first reptiles. They are readily availibe, fairly inexpensive and they don't require an advanced set-up. They have very fun personalities and they always look like their smiling. They aso come in many diffrent colours and patterns.

Natural History and etymology: Cresties come from an island called New Caledonia. Their scientific name comes from the greek words Rhakos and dactylus which means "spine-finger". This refers to the prehensile tail. Ciliatus is latin for "fringed" which refers to the spines or crests that run the length of the geckos body.

Housing: Hatchlings can be housed in a 10 gallon tank. Single adults can be housed in a 10 gallon as well, but a 20 gallon is better because these geckos are pretty active. (Note: Most cresties don't usually drink out of a water bowl, but I always put one in anyway. At very least, it helps maintain humidity. Also, cresties don't use "traditional" hides, like the caves that you buy in the store, but lots of fake plants and cork bark provide cover that the geckos will hide in and behind. Also, make sure you have a secure lid because these geckos can climb glass and most other surfaces.) This is an arboreal species, so height and climbing areas are much more important then floorspace.

Substrate: Newspaper, paper towel, peat moss, and coconut fibre can be used as substrate.

Heating: The daytime temps should be between 75 and 82 degrees F. The nightime temps can drop as low as 70 degrees F, but shouldn't drop any lower then that. (Note: Temps above 85 degrees F for extended periods of time will cause stess for your gecko and could result in death)

Lighting: Cresties should have a photoperiod of either 12hrs on/12hrs off or 16hrs on/8hrs off. (Note: This is a nocturnal species, so may say that UV light is not required, but it still can't hurt)

Humidity: Humidity should be kept above 60% at all times. If the humidity is too low, the gecko will become dehydrated and may die. (The simplest way to add humidity is to mist the enclosure twice a day with lukewarm water. The gecko will also drink the drops off of the leaves and glass. The best times to mist are in the morning and in the evening)

Feeding:[spoiler:e09vwu0z]Cresties are omnivores, so they require both insects and fruits as part of their diet. Hatchlings should be fed appropriatly sized crickets every other day and fruit flavored baby food or smoothie once a week. Adults should be fed baby food/smoothie 3-4 times a week and crickets twice a week. Every other meal shoud be dusted with a calcium supplement. (Note: Never feed citrus fruit! Also, check the ingredients of commercially bought baby food for added citric acid) Another option is the Repashy Superfoods Meal Replacement powdered diet: http://www.store.repashy.com/retail/index.php?target=categories&category_id=24[/spoiler:e09vwu0z]
Be careful when handling. These guys are very adept jumpers. Also, if they get stressed they may drop their tail. This doesn't affect their health, but it won't grow back.

This caresheet also applies to Gargoyle Geckos (Rhacodactylus auriculatus). However there are several diffrences. As sausage already said, they can only be kept individually. They will bite each other and, if they are diffrent sizes, they will cannabalize each other. Also, it is sometimes difficult to get gargs to eat their crickets, so a Rhac meal replacement powdered food should be strongly considered, just to ensure that the geckos diet is nutritionally complete. Finally, for some reason, gargs don't seem to be able to climb glass as well as cresties, so it would be a good idea to provide lots of cork bark or one of those exo-terra polystyrene backgrounds.
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Now for some Gargs...
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*Pictures were found on Google*
 
Gargoyle Geckos are housed and kept almost identically to Creesties only difference is they should be housed singularly as they tend to eat each others tails.

Thanks for posting those cutie Garg pics!!
 
Size: Adults usually grow to be about 3ft long (Mostly tail)

Housing: Juveniles can be kept in a 18in Lx12in Wx18in H. Adults require a minimum 4ft Lx2ft Wx4ft H enclosure.

Substrate: Paper towel, newspaper are acceptable. Cypress mulch and spagnaum moss would be best, as they are better at holding humidity.

Heating: A basking temp of 86-92 degrees F should be provided. The warm abient temp should be between 80-85 degrees F and the cool side ambient temp should be 75-80.

Lighting: CWDs require UV lighting. A photo period of 12hrs on/12hrs off or 8hrs on/16hrs off should be provided.

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained a 65-85%

Feeding:[spoiler:rbbh0hqi]Mealworms, wax worms, crickets, locusts, earthworms, and occasionally other sources of whole food. CWDs will even eat fruit from time to time. Juvies should be fed daily. Adults can also eat daily, but kick feeding back to every 2-3 days if you think your CWD is getting fat. Meals should be dusted with calcium supplement once a week.[/spoiler:rbbh0hqi]
As their name suggests, CWDs love swimming. One of the most difficult things about keeping CWDs is providing enough water. They can have just a large water bowl, but they really should be kept in a semi-aquatic enclosure. They also love to climb, so lots of branches should be provided. One of the biggest problems with CWDs, is that the majority of tem ar WC, so they often have parasites and don't adjust well to captive life. Many WC animals, even if given optimal care, will die after just a few years. (IMO, keeping WC animals is inhumane. There is no way that any WC animal can fully adjust from living free in the wild to living in a cage. I really think that "animal harvesting" (as the people who sell WC animals to retailers call it) should be illegal. It's not fair and all these species can be bred in captivity, so there's no need for WC animals at all. /end rant) If can get a CBB animal and you feel that you can provide CWDs with all their needs, they are very rewarding animals to keep.
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*Note: I'm pretty sure that the last 2 pictures aren't CWDs. I can't tell with the second last one, but the very last one is definately an Australian Water Dragon (Physignathus lesueurrii). I'll do a caresheet on them next.*
 
Size: Adult BTSs usually grow to between 16-20 inches.

Housing: An enclosure of 36in Lx18 in Wx18in H or a 50 gallon tank would be a minimum for a single adult or a pair. (Note: It would be best to keep BTSs individually, as they have been known to fight and are perfectly capable of killing each other.)

Substrate: Newspaper, paper towel, cypress mulch and peat moss are good substrates. The last 2 are better, because they allow the BTS to dig.

Heating: A basking spot of 95 degrees F should be provided. The warm side should be around 85-90 degrees F and the cool side 75-80 degrees F. The nightime temp can drop to as low as 50 derees F, but no lower then that.

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off or 8hr on/16 hr off photo period should be provided. Using UV lighting is advised.

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained between 25-40%. A humid hide should be provided during shedding.

Feeding:[spoiler:2g5mr8l2]BTSs can be fed snails, prawns, hard-boiled egg, roaches, locusts, crickets, wax worms, silk worms, mealworms, cooked chicken pieces, other sources of whole food, and even fruits and raw vegetables 3 or 4 times a week. Every other meal should be dusted with a calcium supplement. Never feed dog or cat food![/spoiler:2g5mr8l2]
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I became rather obsessed with the idea of blue tongued skinks when I was in elementary school and had a pop up book on Australia. You'd pull on one arrow and the skink would stick its tongue out. They're so beautiful.
 
Yeah I love Blue Tongues too. My favorite BTS sub-species is the Shingleback (T. rugosa). Unfortunately they are disgustingly rare anywhere outside of Australia, so unless I can find 2000+ dollars that I can spare I'm not getting one anytime soon lol. I just think they're cool because they look like little crocodiles.
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Edit: oops, sorry that first one is huge, but I just love the look on it's face lol
 
I just realized that I forgot to put this up. I ment to put this up at the beginning of the thread but I was too excited to start putting up caresheets that I completely forgot lol. Anyways, I thought some info on this subject might be helpful. This will be general reptile info, but will primarily focus on selecting a first lizard. Check the other caresheet threads for more specific info.

Selecting Your First Reptile:

As always, research, research, research before you even think of bringing a new animal home. Animals are not impulse buys. It is always advisable that your new reptile's enclosure be set up and ready before you even bring it home. It's also better to have the lights and heat on at least a day before you introduce the animal to it's new home, just to make sure the temps and humidity are all correct.

Now comes the fun part...what kind of reptile do you want? A big one or a small one? A desert reptile or a rainforest one that climbs trees? Maybe you want one that has a certain look, like one with spots or stripes. Or maybe you already have a specific species in mind. The important thing to ask yourself at this point is: why? Why are these qualities that you've already established that you want important? Be realistic with yourself. If you want a Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) just because you like their size or their looks, can you realistically provide these large animals with an even larger enclosure? Are you prepared to deal with their physiological and behavioral changes once a year? Will you still be happy with your choice when you have a 6 foot long potentially aggressive animal on your hands? Admittedly, this is an extreme example but you'd be surprised how many people buy Iguana babies from stores honestly not knowing that their cute little baby is going to grow into a 4-6 ft long dinosaur with potential mood swings. This just shows the importance of research, so you know what you're getting into. If you've taken some time and thought through the hard questions and honestly answered "yes" then congratulations! You can now move onto the next step in the descision-making process...

Now that we've gotten that out of the way, here comes another set of questions...but these ones are a little diffrent from the ones we've just asked ourselves. You may have heard from petstores and other people (and probabley even from me at some point, even though I do try and refrain from labelling anything, it does still slip through every now and then :oops: ) that certain species make good "beginner" pets. It always good to consider these species as your first reptile, but here's another question to ask yourself: As you likely already know, most reptiles have lifespans are usually much longer then most other pets...are you still going to want a "beginner" reptile that you really had no attachment too, but you just got it because you were a novice keeper? What I mean is, let's say that you really have no intrest in geckos but you got a Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularis) because they're considered a good starter reptile...well leos can live up to 20 years, and by that time you may not consider yourself a novice keeper anymore. Are you still going to want to continue caring for your leos, that you really didn't want all that much to begin with? Now, I'm not saying that you're going to dump your leo as soon as you feel you're experienced enough to get the animal you really wanted, but you will not likely enjoy taking care of it, and your leo will sense that.

I guess what I'm trying to say (and hopefully I'm coming across clearly...I've been known to be confusing at times lol) is don't feel "bound" by the common beginner reptiles just because you've never had one before, but at the same time be realistic with yourself and don't just buy an animal that will require more care then you can give it, just because you like the look of it. If you honestly and truely feel that you are prepared to deal with (and want to deal with) an Iguana and you have your heart set on one, then don't feel like you have to get a gecko just because you haven't had reptiles before. But make sure you aren't just being stubborn with yourself, and you just have yourself convinced that the only animal you'll ever love is an Iguana. (Remember: "There are only two tragedies in life: one is not getting what one wants, and the other is getting it." - Oscar Wilde ) The key is honesty and, believe it or not, you really can lie to yourself. If you allow this to happen it is nobody's fault but yours...but the one who suffers is the animal. It's not the animal's fault their owner was headstrong and short-sighted. The information is out there and if you aren't prepared to look for it, then maybe you should reconsider owning animals at all.

Phew. Sorry if I came across to strong and sorry that kind of turned into a rant...It's just taken a bit of a toll on me seeing so many reptiles just cast aside for so many diffrent reasons: "He's boring" "She's too mean" "She never does anything" "He always attacks me" "He's too big" "She won't eat and I don't know why"...there's always some sort of excuse that could easily have been solved by 5 minutes on google, doing even the tiniest bit of research.

oops I almost did it again lol. Anyways, reptiles are such awesome pets and there are so many species available, there's something for everybody. The best thing to do is figure out what you want in a pet and then try and find the animal that has all or most of the qualities you are looking for rather then saying something like "I want an Iguana...yeah, I think I can give it lots of heat an climbing areas and lots of attention." It should go more like this: "I have lots of room to give an animal, so I would like an animal that gets pretty large. I would also like that animal to be smart and I would enjoy giving it lots of one-on-one attention everyday. Oh look, Iguanas sound like the perfect animal for me!" (OK, so it would be a little more complicated then that, but you get the idea :wink: )

It's all based on personal prefrence. I know lots of people who have 40-50 years worth of experience with reptiles and they still love their leos and cresties. I know I've said it tons of times already, but I'll say it again (and again and again and again and again and again and again... :wink: ) the key to picking your perfect pet is RESEARCH and HONESTY with yourself.

Have fun finding your scaly soul-mate and welcome to the world or reptiles!

Please note: Iguanas are one of the most (if not the most) commonly abandoned/re-homed reptiles. Please look into adopting a homeless one before you buy a new one, if you feel like you can provide a wonderful home for an Iggy.

And now some pictures of the animals that were mentioned :mrgreen: :
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I wasn't going to let Bamboo have all the fun!! I love doing research on various pet species all the time even if I don't have them or ever plan on getting one but I love to share anything I know.

I came across these little guys a while ago, they look super neat-o and seems to have moderate care requirements but that's currently being disputed. So I just typed up what I feel would be closer to the truth by taking into account their natural habitat.

Cave Geckos - Goniurosaurus Spp.
Size: They grow to about 9” (20cm).

Housing: A 20 gallon tank can hold 2 or 3 geckos. It is not recommended that you house males together.

Substrate: Any substrate that will hold the humidity is recommended ie. coconut fibre, sphagnum moss, Cyprus mulch or just plain paper towel.

Heating: Their daytime temp should range from 70-80 degrees F (21-25 C) and at night can drop to 68-70 degrees F (20-21 C), therefore no supplemental heating is needed. In fact temperatures over and above 85 degrees (29 C) can be detrimental to this species.

Lighting: Being very nocturnal these guys do not require any UV lighting but like all animals they do require a photoperiod.

Humidity: Humidity should always be circa 80%, this can be achieved by misting their enclosure once or twice a day preferably at night. They should also be supplied with a humid hide for them to go in at their leisure.

Feeding: [spoiler:3ctw08e8]A good feeding schedule for Cave Geckos is every other day or at least 3 times a week Cave geckos are insectivores and can be fed a variety of feeder insects, such as: crickets, mealworms, waxworms, earthworms, silkworms, butterworms and phoenix worms. Dust food with a calcium powder twice a week to provide additional calcium for growing bones (unless feeding phoenix worms). Dust food items once a week with a multivitamin supplement. Offering food at night when they are active is best.[/spoiler:3ctw08e8]

Unfortunately not too much is known about these guys as they were just discovered in 1996 but they breed readily enough in captivity so that one should have no excuse about not being able to find a captive-bred specimen. It would be fair to estimated their lifespan to be similar to other geckos: 15-20 years making this gecko like any other animal a serious life changing choice.

Here are some pics from google

 
Well, since I mentioned iggies in the "first reptile" post, I figured I should give them a decent caresheet lol. As opposed to how it may have come across, I actually really love iggies :mrgreen: They're really, really cool animals. They also bare a striking resemblance to their ancestors, the dinosaurs, which likely accounts for a lot of their popularity. Unfortunately, this is also the reason why so many iggies are left homeless: too many people just like to look of them and either don't know or don't care how to take care of them properly. Like I previously mentioned, Green Iguanas (Iguana iguana) are the most commonly abandoned reptile, so look into adopting a homeless one rather then buying a new one if you feel an iggy is right for you.

Size: Adults usually grow to between 5-6ft, most of which is tail. (Note: Like varanids/monitors, the tail-whipping is often done in self-defence. But remember that this is often a last resort, so if you pay attention to your animal's body language, you should be able to avoid it.)

Housing: A minimum 12ft Lx6ft Wx6ft H will house a single adult or a pair. (Note: Never house males together! Also, the enclosure should be an area of the house that is away from the TV, speaker systems, etc. because the noise and vibrations stress iggies out. Be careful not to put the branches so that your iguana can look down on you, especially with males because looking down on someone is a sign of dominance. Like dogs, iggies have complex social hierarchies)

Substrate: Bark mulch and peat moss are good substrates. (As always, when using a loose substrate such as these, care should be taken to ensure that none of it is ingested, which would likely result in impaction. A bowl or plate are a good way to prevent this, but the animals should still be monitored while they're eating.)

Heating: A basking area of around 95 degrees F should be provided, but it should never exceed 97 degrees F. The warm side ambient temp should be between 80-90 degrees F and the cool side ambient temp should be between 75-80 degrees F. The nighttime temp can get as low as 68 degrees F, but no lower.(Note: If housing muliple animals is a single enclosure, you should proved at lest the same number of basking spots as there are animals, just to reduce the risk of fighting.)

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained between 70-75%. It should never drop below 65% and during shedding it can be kicked up to as high as 90%.

Feeding: Even though many people claim otherwise, iggies are completely herbivorous. They will often eat animal protein, but that doesn't mean that they should. Iggies that are frequently fed animal protein often have many more health problems then iggies that are fed a strictly herbivorous diet. The ideal iggy diet breaks down like this: 80% leafy greens [romaine lettuce, watercress, endive, mustard greens, bok choi, collard greens, carrot tops, broccoli leaves (not florets), turnip greens (not the tuber part), chicory greens, parsley, alfalfa, dandelions (leaves and flowers), hibiscus (leaves and flowers), dahlia (leaves and flowers) geraniums (leaves and flowers), daisies (leaves and flowers)], 15-10% other veggies (sugar snaps, cassava, squash, cucumbers, asparagus, bell peppers, green beans, okra, parsnip, tomato), 5-10% fruit (figs, kiwi, seedless grapes, dates, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, mango, prickly pear cactus leaves) All food items should be washed and chopped, shredded, crushed, etc. before being offered to the iggy.

Some food that you should avoid are: cabbage, kale, chard, broccoli florets, cauliflower, beets, sprouts. NEVER feed any of the following, as the are toxic: fruit seeds (apple, pear, cherry, nectarine, etc.), avacado, eggplant, christmas cactus, pointsettia, rhododendron, mistltoe, tulips, azaleas, lily-of-the-valley, daffodil, rosemary, sage, marijuana (I know it seems obvious, but you'd be surpised to know how many people have fed this :doh: ) As you may have noticed, many of these are commonly grown as houseplants...make sure when you're giving you're iggy some free time out of the enclosure, that you put away any houseplants. Any toxic ones will poison you iggy, and and any non-toxic ones will be eaten alive :wink: It should also be noted that you should avoid feeding iceberg lettuce altogether. It has no nutritional value whatsoever, but it's also proved to be very addictive to iggies and they'll refuse to eat anything else. Also, every other meal should be dusted with calcium for juveniles, but only 2 or 3 times a week for adults. Finally, despite the fact that they're herbivores, a rare treat that is greatly appreciated by iggies, is a cubes of whole grain bread. It should be dampened first, so it doesn't expand in the iggies throat.


Iguanas are awesome reptiles to own, but you need to be prepared for the immense responsibility you would be taking on. Breeding season is something that should strongly be considered when thinking about bringing an iggy home. It should be noted that not all iggy's go through the motions of breeding season, but most do and you can't bank on your iggy not being affected. Both genders will go through significant changes, both phisically and behaviorally during breeding season. Females, wheather they have mated or not, will become gravid wth eggs and will lay infertile clutches. During this time they will stop eating, and if they don't lay their eggs, you will need to take her to the vet because if she has retained the eggs it could be deadly. Also you would have to be careful with handling, because she will become skittish, but you could also break the eggs inside her which could also be deadly. Males during breeding season, will start to change to an orange-ish colour, and he will start leaving "sperm plugs" and semen all over his cage. He will also become messier in his toilet habits then usual. In the wild this is done to mark his territory and attract females...but it's kind of gross to have to clean up lol. However, the most significant change in male iguanas during breeding season, is that they become VERY aggressive. Their reaction to you will depend on if you are a guy or girl. If you are a guy,he will feel like you are trying to take his territory and will try to tail-whip and bite you. Watch for head bobbing! That is his way of telling you that he isn't happy that you are around right now. (Head bobbing can happen all year around, but watch for it especially during breeding season) If you are a girl, he will still be aggressive towards you, but for a diffrent reason: he is trying to mate with you lol! He will become very sneaky, like he is stalking you, and if he gets half a chance, he will grab your foot, leg or whatever and bite...hard. They bite female Iguanas when mating, but Iguana skin is a lot tougher then human skin, and these bites can be quite serious.

I'm not saying Iguanas are bad pets, but they are not really suitable for a first time reptile owner. They need an experienced and patient keeper. I personally love Iguanas. I have a great respect for them, and I have many good memories, like sitting out in the backyard on warm sunny days with my Quincy, a boy that I rescued, eating dandelions, but I also remember that we had some hard times. During breeding season, I would wear like 5 pairs of pants, because I knew it was just a matter of time before he got me and I didn't want to have to go to the emergency room. It's a good thing I did too...he got me at least once a season, and thanks to my layers, all I ever got was a nasty bruise. All and all, with Iguanas when things are good, they're good, but when they're bad, they're bad. Something cool about wild iggies is, that they usually live in family communities. Males will fight for dominance and typically there is only one male per colony. When the colony is threatened, the male will use his body to block the attcker(s) from getting to the females and babies. Iguanas are one of the few reptiles that have this kind of communal behavior. Unfortunately, iggies natural reflexes have been turned against them: because they are often preyed on by birds of prey, iggies will instictively freeze when they hear a shriek or whistle. When they freeze, it makes them extremely difficult to see from above because their colour blends them into the vegetation. However, poachers have learned about this and use it to their advantage. They go out looking for Iguanas and when they find them, they make a bird-of-prey like screech which causes the Iguana(s) to freeze, making them easy targets.
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^An wild iggy displaying the typical iggy determination. This is why you hide your houseplants when they come out of their enclosure :wink:
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^A male iggy showing the colour changes that happen during breeding season
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Size: 12 inches, but slightly larger isn't uncommon

Housing: A minimum 36in(3ft)L x 48in(4ft)H x 18in W enclosure is fine for a single adult. There should be lots of branches and fake plants for climbing. (Note: You will need to get a waterfall or one of those aquarium bubblers or set up a drip system because HMDs ignore standing water. They only seem to notice water that's moving, so you need to set up something so your dragon can drink)

Substrate: Paper towel, newspaper, coco fibre and cypress mulch are all good substrates.

Heating: A basking spot is not nessicary for this species. Warm side temps should be around 80 degrees F and the cool side temps should be around 75 degrees F. Nightime temps can drop to 70 degrees F, but no lower then that.

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off or 10hr on/12 hr off photoperiod should be provided. UV is recommended.

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained around 70-75%.

Feeding:[spoiler:ywugz1ih]Feed HMDs appropriatly sized crickets, mealworms, silk worms and wax worms. One of the best things to feed is earthworms. They could even be the staple diet. If regularly feeding earthworms, dust with calcium supplement once a week. If not using earthworms regularly, dust every other meal.[/spoiler:ywugz1ih]
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