For lindsayfawn :wink:
This caresheet is also applicable to African Dwarf Frogs.
Size: ACFs will grow to be around 5-6â StV. ADFs will not exceed 2â StV. Females will be larger then males.
Housing: I recommend a base of 15 gallons with an extra 10 gallons for each additional frog. ACFs get quite large and ADFs are very active so they will make use of all the space given to them.
Landscaping Fully aquatic. Any substrate must be too large to fit into the frogâs mouth and smooth to prevent injuries. River rocks, tile and large, flat pieces of slate are all acceptable substrates. Vacuuming must be done regularly to prevent ammonia levels from getting to high. Bare bottom tanks are easier to maintain but donât always look as nice. The choice is up to you.
These frogs need a sense of security. Good plant cover and caves are excellent ways to keep them comfortable. Plant pots on their side make great caves. They will often destroy live plants because of their habit of moving them around the enclosure. I have heard that some keepers have had good luck with Anubias but I have never tried this myself. I believe it depends on the individual frogs lol. If using fake plants, donât use plastic aquarium plants. Thy are too rigid and often have sharp edges that could cut your frogs skin and webbing. Silk plants (readily available at Wal-Mart and craft stores) are great. They come in a huge variety of colours and styles.
How much water to change weekly depends on the size of your tanks to the number of frogs being kept. It also depends on whether you filter or not. There is a bit of a debate between ACF keepers about filtration. Obviously, filtering the water helps keep the water clean but some argue that the stress caused by the filter over-rides the benefits. The argument being that these frogs are very sensitive to vibrations (because in the wild they often live in water with very little movement. Sensing vibrations in the water is used both as a means of hunting prey and knowing when predators are near...sort of the underwater equivalent of hearing) so the constant "noise" of the filter would cause a sort of sensory overload.
The best solution is to use a canister filter, not a HOT filter. The canister filter keeps the water clean without touching the glass and causing vibrations, so it's the best of both worlds. Just make sure to angle the output hose so it's not causing too much surface agitation. Canister filters often provide better filtration anyway but, in my experience, they often don't have the best mechanical filtration (leftover food, poop, etc) So you should definitely keep a gravel vacuum handy for the water changes.
If you can't get your hands on a canister filter, no filter and diligent water changes/monitoring would probably be the way to go.
As a general rule, I would suggest:
- Non-filtered tanks have two 25% water changes a week (doing these changes after feeding would be a good idea)
Filtered Tanks have a 15-25% water change once a week.
Depending on how the water in your area is treated, you will almost certainly have to treat your water before you use it with your frogs (always assume that it isnât safe) Chlorine will mostly dissipate after 24 hours. Chloramines, however, will not. Hard water is also rough on the frogâs immune system.
The best thing would be to invest in a reverse osmosis filter. However, a conditioner that removes all the bad things is acceptable as well. You should get the water in you area tested to figure out what you specifically are dealing with.
Heating: An ideal temp would be between 72-78 degrees F. These frogs are very hardy and will do just fine without a heater as long as your room temp stays between 65-85 degrees F.
Lighting: A photo period is all thatâs necessary. If the tank gets natural daylight (not direct sun!) a light may not be required. However, a light would make viewing and general display much easier and nicer. A simple fluorescent light for up to 12 hours a day is all thatâs necessary.
Feeding:[spoiler:baen5y17]Feed daily and keep diet varied. Frog pellets can be fed but should not be a staple. Brine shrimp, bloodworms, daphnia, krill and shrimp are readily available at aquarium stores, either live or frozen. Avoid freeze dried. Earthworms, silkworms and crickets are also good prey items.[/spoiler:baen5y17]
These are fun frogs! They are quite active compared to other frogs and are sort of an interesting alternative to fish. Their look is quite comical and they are really hardy. They can be kept socially (as long as they are kept with similarly sized frogs) and itâs really interesting to see them interact with each other. They are easy to sex: females will be larger and the cloaca will be obvious between back legs (looks sort of like a tail stub) Males will have nuptial pads and are typically more likely to call, although females have also been known to call.
They are quite forgiving of keeper error. Their needs are fairly simple to fulfill and they are a good first amphibian.
(Images from Google)
And Some African Dwarf Frogs