Caresheets (Amphibians)

[Bamboo]

So this is going to be the amphibian version of the snake (http://www.jorats.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16531&p=226186#p226186)and lizard caresheet threads. (http://www.jorats.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16516&p=226175#p226175) I was originally going to make this a collection of amphibian and arachnid caresheets, but then I decided to make the two into seperate threads, just because I don't want anyone who is afraid of spiders to feel like they have to avoid the amphibians...besides, there's really no reason for them to be together so I don't know why I was orginally inclined to put the two together lol.

Anyways, like the other two threads this first post will have a list of abbreviations, etc. and I will also include a few general care tips that apply to most amphibians. I will be almost contantly be coming back and adding little hints that I forgot to put in the first time, so that's why all the other first posts (and eventually this one) will be edited tons of times lol.

• RETF = Red Eyed Tree Frog (Agalychnis callidryas)
  Darts = Dartfrogs (Dendrobatidae)
  WTF = White's Tree Frog (Litoria caerulea) (You thought I was going to say something else, didn't you :wink: )
  FBN = Fire Bellied Newts (Cynops)
  FBT = Fire Bellied Toads (Bombina)
  Pyxie = Pyxie Frog/African Bullfrog (Pyxicephalus adspersus)
  Chytrid = Chytrid Fungus: A highly contagious fungus fatal to amphibians *More info to follow*

*Chytrid Fungus is an low temperature (15-23C/59-73F) aquatic pathogen that is often fatal to amphibians. It has devastated many wild populations and has been a major factor in the extinction of several species. It is spread through water and contact with other amphibians that are infected. Captive animals can still get chytrid fungus! Infected animals will go through many physiological and behavioral changes. The fungus will first affect the skin by microscopically eating away at it. This will create a burning sensation for the animal, so it will try to ease the pain by soaking. Many will not leave the water at all, and will just stay there until they die. (The majority of animals that have been found dead in the wild have been found in bodies of water. Unfortunatly, all this does in infect the water and any amphibian that comes in contact with it will also become infected.) Upon closer inspection, the skin will appear dry and streched. The belly will likely be red and irritated looking. The body will also look bloated because the fungus will start to use up the body's calcium, which causes fluid retention. The animal will also be much more sensitive to touch and handling. As it spreads through the body, the fungus will get into the animal's nervous system. This will cause slowed breathing, toe curling, head-tucking, and limb paralysis. Once this has happened, the animal is beyond help and will soon die.

The best thing you can do about Chytrid is prevent it. If your amphibians live in the correct temp zone (15-23C/59-73F) soak them for 5 minutes in a solution of 1 part Betadine http://www.betadine.com/ to 100 parts water 2 or 3 times a week. If you get a new animal, quarantine it for up to 2 months. For the first 2 weeks, give it daily 5 minute soaks in the previously mentioned solution. It would also be advisable to only handle the new animal with disposable gloves.

If you find that you have an infected animal you could still be able to save it, if it's not too late.

Heating:Heat the enclosure up to 35C/95F for 4 hours once a day, then return to the animal's normal required temps.

Soaking: Mix up a solution of 10 squirts of Lamasil AT Athlete's Foot Spray http://www.lamisilat.com/what-does-lamisil-offer/lamisil-spray/index.html and 200 mls of water. Soak the animal for 5 minutes daily for 10 days. (Completely sterilize the enclosure before putting the animal back into it)

Disinfecting the enclosure: If the normal enclosure is large and elaborately decorated it would be best move the animal to a smaller, temporary enclosure. Disinfect everything with bleach and rinse well. Spread Betadine over all surfaces with a towel for several minutes. Rinse well and dry. Any plants (live or fake) should be destroyed. Any wooden perches should be soaked in a solution of 1 part Betadine and 3 parts water for 2 days.

Disposable gloves should be worn whenever handling the animal and any infected cage decore etc. Remember: Chytrid spreads through water, so be very careful with waste water. DO NOT just dump it down the drain! Waste water should be bleached (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) for 24 hours before it is safe to go through the sewage system. Also, anything that is being disposed of should be burned[spoiler:qt7p737l]Unfortunately, this includes any animals that die[/spoiler:qt7p737l] I know this all seems very extreme, but it's nessicary to prevent the spread of this fungus.

The above treatment methods are not always successful, but there is hope. Last March there was a break through discovery involving a possible cure for Chytrid: http://www.jmu.edu/news/madisonscholar/ReidHarris.shtml

Please note that Chytrid is NOT dangerous for humans and other warm-blooded creatures. However we can still spread it.*

I'm not trying to scare anybody away from getting an amphibian. If all precautions are taken, chytrid shouldn't be a problem. Amphibians are awesome animals to keep. They come in all colours, forms and they all have awesome personalities. Just to lighten the mood a bit I'll include some pictures of some of the species who will be getting caresheets put up here in the near future and to show the fun side of keeping amphibians :mrgreen:

Note: Rather then have the sub-topic Substrate this section will have Landscaping. This is because the majority of amphibian habitats need to be either aquatic or semi-aquatic. However unless otherwise noted, even the aquatic species require land availible to them. So the Landscaping section will tell you how much land and water the individual species need. Appropriate substrates will also be disscused in the Landscaping section. Also, here's the link to an awesome website that has a step-by-step guide that shows how to build a false bottomed enclosure. These are often recommended with aquatic/semi-aquatic species, just because it makes cleaning and maintenance a lot easier: http://www.victri.net/tanks/vivarium_2005-06-20.html

 

[Bamboo]

As amphibians go, these guys are very easy to keep. With proper care, they can live to be 8-12 years old.

Size: Japanese FBNs ((Cynops pyrrhogaster)) can grow to be 3-6 inches. Chinese FBNs (Cynops orientalis) are a bit smaller, growing to only 3-4 inches.

Housing: 1 or 2 can be kept in a 10 gallon. If there are more then 3, they should be given at least 20 gallons. Remember, FBNs are an aquatic animal, but there must be at least some land availible to them in their enclosure. Also, make sure you have a good lid for the tank, so they don't escape...you may not expect it from newts but I swear some of these guys are part gecko lol.

Landscaping: FBN enclosures should be either 1/4 land/3/4 water or 1/3 land/2/3 water. There should be gravel slope leading up to the land area to help the newts climb out, but the gravel should not be small enough for the newts to swallow. Those "river rocks" would be the best choice since they are also smooth, so they will not harm the newt's delicate skin. Adding plants to the water (real or fake) will help the newts feel more secure. There should be at least 3-4 inches of de-chlorinated water. A submesible filter would help with cleaning.

Heating: Between 65-70 degrees F is best for FBNs. Exposure to temps above 75 degrees will cause stress and the animal(s) may die.

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off or 10hr on/14hr off photoperiod should be provided. Make sure the lights are florescent. Incandescent lights generate to much heat for these guys.

Feeding: [spoiler:1qc3xa6w]Feed FBNs bloodworms, earthworms, brine shrimp, small crickets, small mealworms, small silk worms. Live or frozen is best. Freeze-dried is OK, but a lot of nutrients are lost. Feed FBNs 3 or 4 times a week. Every other meal should be dusted with calcium. Don't forget to clean any food that wasn't eaten after 15 minutes out of the tank.[/spoiler:1qc3xa6w]
These guys are a lot of fun. They are also very easy to find. They are also pretty forgiving of keeper error, as far as amphbians go. However, handling should be kept to a minimum. It causes stress to the newts and they have an oil on their skin that can irritate our skin. Wash you hands before and after anytime you handle your FBNs.

 

[sausage4ever]

We used to have two of these as a class pets...they were pretty sweet!!

 

[Bamboo]

I really can't properly express how much I love these guys! I love all frogs in general, but these guys are awesome! They are known by a few other names, such as Australian Green Tree Frog, Dumpy Tree Frog and Smiling Tree Frog, but White's Tree Frog is the most common. With proper care they can live to be 20 years old, and possibly even longer.

Size: 4-6 inches, females are usually quite a bit larger then males.

Housing: A minimum 25 gallon tank will comfortably house a single animal or a pair. Remember, this is an arboreal species, so height and climbing areas are much more important then floorspace.

Landscaping: Plants, cork bark and branches should be provided to allow your WTFs lots of climbing opportunites. A large water dish with around 4 inches of water should also be provided (Note: It is sometimes suggested that the enclosure floor should be 1/2 land and 1/2 water but I've found that, for the amount of swimming they do, a large water bowl is much easier to maintain then a semi-aquatic enviroment. However, if you want, you can offer a semi-aquatic enclosure but it's up to you. Whatever you choose, make sure the water isn't too deep and provide lots of rocks and branches in the water, to help prevent drowning.) Potting soil, peat moss or sphagnaum moss are good substrates. Paper towel or newspaper can also be used if you are planning on having a sterile set-up as opposed to a naturalistic one.

Heating: WTFs should be kept between 70-85 degrees F during the day. At night the temp can drop to 65 degrees F, but shouldn't go any lower then that.

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off or 10hr on/14hr off photoperiod should be provided. These guys are nocturnal, so UV lighting is not nessicarily required.

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained between 55-75%. The enclosure should be misted twice a day.

Feeding:[spoiler:2tavpyqm]Feed WTFs as many crickets, roaches, locusts, mealworms, wax worms, and silk worms as they will eat in 5-10 minutes daily. Dust with a calcium supplement every other meal. A varied diet is the best way to ensure optimal health. Note: While these guys are naturally heavy-bodied, be careful not to overfeed them. If the frog is obese, the flap of skin behind their eyes will start to come over and cover thier eyes and ears. If this happens, kick feeding back to every other day or two.[/spoiler:2tavpyqm]
WTF's are probably one of the best amphibians for beginners: They are extremely hardy and disease resistant, but they are also very social with people. In general, they have no fear of humans and are very willing and happy to interact with their owners. However, something to be aware of is that these frogs are very vocal. They get particularly vocal at night, so you may want to think about that if you're planning on keeping them in your bedroom. It's particularly bad in the summer when the windows are open and they can hear noises from outside. The pair I had for a while last year would get going at any given opportunity: the phone ringing, the stove timer, the clock radio, the doorbell...even songs on the radio or something on the TV lol. They will even respond to their owners talking to them lol. It should be noted that males are typically more vocal then females. Females will usually only croak in protest, like if you move them or surprise them, but males will "talk" to pretty much anything. Here's a video that will give you an idea of what to expect lol:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUrPL-werF0

 

[Bamboo]

Even though they look like aliens, axolotls (pronounced: "ax-oh-lot-el") are actually an un-metamorphosized form of Tiger Salamander larvae. They are completely aquatic and require cool temperatures. They are sensitive and not very forgiving of keeper error, so some experience would be helpful when keeping this species. But they are very cool to keep if all their requirements are taken care of. Axolotl's are capable of re-generating lost limbs.

Size: Adults usually grow to between 9-12 inches, but larger isn't uncommon.

Housing: 10 gallons of water per axolotl. Water should be at least 15 inches deep. (Note: While they can usually be housed comunally, it should be noted that "wild" morph axolotls are typically aggressive toward albino axolotls and shouldn't be housed together. Also, while cannabalism is uncommon in adults, it's still possible. Any axolotls that are housed together should be around the same size. This is also why axolotls cannot be housed with fish or salamanders or anything: the axolotl will eventally eat them, if it's big enough and/or the axolotls gills will be nipped at and could be potentially damaged.)

Landscaping: Axolotls are completely aqautic, but ideally a branch or something similar should be provided in case the axolotl wants to get out of the water, just in case. (Axolotls naturally metamorphosing is extremely rare.) Also, NEVER use regular aquarium gravel or sand: It's only a matter of time before it's ingested, causing impaction and eventually death. River rocks or bare bottom are best. Make sure to provide lot of plants and caves to ensure that the animal feels safe and has lots of places to hide and explore. Filteration would be advised to make sure ammonia and nitrates (from waste) don't build up, but make sure to follow directions (ie: x% water change every y) Also, water flow from the filter's output should be at an absolute minimum. Excessive water flow causes stress and will likely lead to stress related disease and eventually death. Finally, axolotls should be housed in de-chlorinated water and the pH should be between 7.0-8.0

Heating: Water temp should remain between 57-68 degrees F. Temps above 75 degrees F will cause stress and will eventually lead to death. (Water temps should be watched especially closely during the summer months, to ensure that it doesn't get to high

Lighting: No special lighting is required.

Feeding:[spoiler:1w93jcdb]Earthworms, bloodworms, blackworms, wax worms, daphnids, brine shimp and sinking soft salmon pellets can be fed everyday or every other day.[/spoiler:1w93jcdb]

A "Wild" morph

 

[Moon]

Eww, just eww. The white ones especially. They are far too weird! LOL

I love looking at the pics you post, Bamboo, but those things are creepy.

 

[Bamboo]

lol I actually saw a list not too long ago that said that axolotls are the 3rd weirdest animal on the planet. I know what you mean, though...the white ones look sort of like alien/ghost type things. I personally like the unique-ness of axolotls, but I don't know that I'd want to to have such a sensitive animal on my hands.

 

[Bamboo]

Everybody knows these guys. RETF's have become the symbol of conservation, particularly rainforest conservation. Their beautiful green bodies are a stark contrast to their intense red eyes, which are perfectly accented by their intricate yellow/blue dorsal striping and bright orange feet. They are such amazingly beautiful animals, it's no wonder that they are instantly recognized all around the world.

Size: Adults grow to between 2-3 inches (Females are noticably larger then males)

Housing: A 25 gallon is the minimum for groups of 2-4 frogs.

Landscaping: This is an arboreal species, so height and climbing areas are much more important then floorspace. Driftwood branches, exo terra vines, PVC pipes and plants (fake or real) can all be used to provide climbing and hiding areas. Paper towel, sphagnaum moss, orchid bark and peat moss are all acceptable substrates. A shallow bowl of de-chlorinated water should always be availible to the frogs. It should be changed daily.

Heating: The warm side should be around 80 degrees F and the cool side should be around 75 degrees F. Nightime temps can drop to 70 degrees F, but no lower. (Ocassionally it is acceptable for the temps to get as high as 85 degrees F and as low as 65 degrees F, but they should not be maintained at these levels)

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off or 10hr on/14hr off photoperiod should be provided. (This is a nocturnal species, so UV is required, but it can't hurt either...)

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained between 80-100%. Misting the enclosure once or twice (maybe even three times) a day will help maintain these level of humidity. A misting system is another option.

Feeding:[spoiler:1nq5ick8]Adults RETFs can be fed appropriatly sized crickets, mealworms, waxworms, silk worms, butterworms, moths, flies, and earthworms every 2-3 days. Young RETFs should be fed daily for the first year. It's best to offer food at night when the frogs are active. Every other meal should be dusted with a calcium supplement. (If your not using UV lighting, you will need to use Calcium+D3. If you are using UV you don't need the added D3)[/spoiler:1nq5ick8]
Now for the photo dump...these guys are wat too photogenic :mrgreen:

 

[Bamboo]

Size: Adults will grow to be between 2-4 inches.

Housing: A minimum 10 gallon tank will house a group of 2 or 3 toads. Another 5 gallons should be added for each additional toad. (Note: Males are extremely territorial so there shouldn't be anymore then 1 male in every tank)

Landscaping: 1/3 land and 2/3 water. The top layer of the land section should be moss to prevent dirt or gravel from being ingested, which would cause impacton. Make sure to add lots and lots of plants, either real or fake to both the land and water areas. These toads love to hide in plants, but make sure to add regular hides as well. (Those half logs work well) The water should be de-chlorinated and filtered (be sure to follow filter drections) There should not be a strong current, so put the filter on the lowest output setting possible. If the current is still too strong you can either put a sponge on the output valve or place a rock or other large water decoration infront of it to lower the current.

Heating: A basking spot of 65-75 degrees F can be provided during the day. The ambient temp should be between 72-78 degrees F. The nightime temp can drop as low as 65 degrees F.

Lighting: FBTs are diurnal, so UV is highly recommended. Make sure your light is flourescent, as opposed to incandescent, so as not to produce any additional heat that could dry out the enclosure air.

Humidity: The humidity should be maintained between 60-80%

Feeding:[spoiler:1vbn7u52]Feed crickets, silkworms, waxworms, butterworms and earthworms. Young FBTs should be fed daily. Adults can be fed 2-4 times a week. Every meal should be dusted with calcium and multivitamin powder.[/spoiler:1vbn7u52]

camoflage

 

[Bamboo]

Size: Adults will grow to be between 3-5 inches.

Housing: A minimum 10 gallon tank will comfortably house a single adult. Note: These frogs must be housed singly because they are extremely aggressive will cannabalize any tankmates.

Landscaping: 1/2 water and 1/2 land. The deepest part of the water should be no deeper then the length of the frog to prevent drowning. The bottom of the water section should either be bare bottom or river rocks. Never use regular aquarium gravel because it will be ingested and cause impaction. The land section can be made up of a 50% bark mulch and 50% potting soil or peat moss. Be sure to provide secure places to hide, either in the form of plant pots, half logs, exo terra caves and cover from plants, either real or fake.

Heating: The ambient temp should be between 80-85 degrees F. The nighttime temp can drop as low as 75 degrees F, but no lower.

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off or 10hr on/14hr off photoperiod should be provided. UV is not nessicarily required.

Humidity: Humidity should be maintained between between 65-85%

Feeding:[spoiler:203bu1ba]Feed earthworms, mealworms, roaches, locusts, silkworms, crickets, and feeder mollies and/or guppies, assuming that you can find a reliable, safe source 3 or 4 times a week. Once full sized, they can be fed other sources of whole food. They shouldn't be fed these too frequently, though...No more then once a month. Dust every other meal.[/spoiler:203bu1ba]
It should be noted that these frogs are extremely aggressive. They've actually been nick named the "Freddy Krueger Frog" and with good reason: they won't hesitate to kill and eat and tank mates. They are also be willing to take on human hands, so handling should be avoided. Even though they don't have teeth, they do a have 2 small, pointed protrusions in the centre of their lower jaw...and that's all they need to be capable of drawing blood! When they need to be moved somewhere, they should be herded in to a cup or similar container and tranfered that way. That being said, if you are looking for a "look, but don't touch" display animal, these guys are awesome. They are very unique looking animals.

hehe, sorry...I couldn't resist :tongwigl:

 

[sausage4ever]

I always found budgetts to be incredible unpleasant looking and now to learn that they haunt my nightmares anic:

 

[Bamboo]

They do kinda look like a regular frog that got run over by a truck or something lol. I actually really like the look of Budgett's, but I just like frogs in general...and I must admit that I'm also a NOES fan, so these guys are perfect for me :wink:

 

[Bamboo]

Commonly refered to as Pacman Frogs and Horned Frogs

Size: Depending on the type, adults can grow to be between 3-9 inches (Females will be larger then males)

Housing: A mimimum 15 gallon tank will comfortably house a single adult. (Never house more then one together...they will cannabalize each other)

Landscaping: Peat moss and coco fibre are good substrates for pacman frogs. Make sure to provide substate deep enough for the frog to bury itself completely. A shallow bowl of water is enough for these frogs. Make sure the water level doesn't go above the frog's nostrils or it will drown eventually. Provide lots of hides and plants (either real or artificial) so your frog feels secure.

Heating: The ambient temp should be maintained between 75-80 degrees F.

Lighting: A 10hr on/14hr off photoperiod should be maintained. Flourescent lighting is recommended because incandescent may create to much heat. (Note: if your frog loses intrest in food, add an extra hour or two of darkness)

Humidity: Maintain between 70-80%. Mist every day or two to maintain humidity.

Feeding:[spoiler:3qm4j54t]Feed appropriatly sized crickets, meal worms, silk worms, butterworms, earthworms and small fish from clean sources. Frogs under a year old should be fed every other day, slowly reducing time between feedings until you are feeing your adult once a week. Juvie meals should be dusted once a week and adults meals should be dusted once a month with a calcium and mulit vitamin powder[/spoiler:3qm4j54t]

 

[Bamboo]

I should have mentioned this sooner, but I completely forgot: Always check your local bylaws before aquiring a new animal! Sometimes specific species are prohibited and sometimes animals are banned by size (for example: anything that reaches an adult size larger then x(insert unit of measurement here) is prohibited) And don't assume that because you've seen something in your local pet store that it's legal in your area...Around here, it's perfectly legal to sell prohibited animals as long as you don't own them. Lastly, another reason to always check is because sometimes animals you would never expect aren't allowed (For example, here in the City of Ottawa, hedgehogs are technically prohibited)

That being said, you can usually get away with owning prohibited animals (not that I would know :wink: ), as long as you don't go around parading it around. Just be aware that I do not advise ignoring your local bylaws, so if you choose to go ahead with it, you are doing so at your own risk.

 

[Bamboo]

Size: Usually grows to be 4-5 inches tall

Housing: Prefers cool, dark places. They will often migrate to refrigerator crispers to escape excess humidity.

Landscaping: It doesn't matter if you give it the best and most ideal enviroment: Angry Pepper still will not be pleased.

Heating: Cool

Humidity: Low

Lighting: Dark

Feeding: Angry Pepper will glady eat anything unfortunate enough to cross paths with it anic:

If you ever come across Angry Pepper, please don't put yourself at risk!...back away, and then run as fast as you can once your far enough away. It will let you know that it is especially irritated by displaying it's typical mouth gape, accompanied by a shrill shrieking. Angry Pepper has also been known to practice ventrioloquism: Last year, group of people unfortunately crossed paths with Angry Pepper and before they could figure out where it was, it faked them out by throwing it's voice...it then circled around and came at them from the opposite direction. They all somehow managed to get away with nothing but emotional scars. Please respect Angry Pepper! Don't bother it and it should leave you alone.

Happy April Fool's Day, everyone!

 

[Moon]

Oh too funny

 

[Bamboo]

lol I'm glad I'm not the only who found this funny :lol2:

 

[jorats]

ROFLMAO!!!!!! Oh man, I laughed so much. That's a good one. :laugh4:

Size: Usually grows to be 4-5 inches tall

Housing: Prefers cool, dark places. They will often migrate to refrigerator crispers to escape excess humidity.

Landscaping: It doesn't matter if you give it the best and most ideal enviroment: Angry Pepper still will not be pleased.

Heating: Cool

Humidity: Low

Lighting: Dark

Feeding: Angry Pepper will glady eat anything unfortunate enough to cross paths with it anic:

If you ever come across Angry Pepper, please don't put yourself at risk!...back away, and then run as fast as you can once your far enough away. It will let you know that it is especially irritated by displaying it's typical mouth gape, accompanied by a shrill shrieking. Angry Pepper has also been known to practice ventrioloquism: Last year, group of people unfortunately crossed paths with Angry Pepper and before they could figure out where it was, it faked them out by throwing it's voice...it then circled around and came at them from the opposite direction. They all somehow managed to get away with nothing but emotional scars. Please respect Angry Pepper! Don't bother it and it should leave you alone.

Happy April Fool's Day, everyone!

 

[Bamboo]

Size: Adults will grow to be between 5-9 inches long. Males are noticably larger then females, and it is not uncommon for them to get to be over 10 inches long.

Housing: A 10 gallon is fine for juveniles, but adults will need a minimum 20 gallon tank. Some of the larger males will require at least 30 gallons. (Please note: these frogs should always be kept individually, as they will cannabalize any and all tankmates)

Landscaping: 1/4 water and 3/4 land or 1/3 water and 2/3 land would be ideal. The water area must have 2 diffrent levels: the frog must have a place where it can sit with it's head above water and a place where it can be fully submerged. If you are using water bowls, rather then a semi-aquatic set-up, the best way to do this is to have two diffrent bowls: one shallow and one deep (litter boxes would be a good suggestion for the deep bowl) If you are doing semi-aquatic: a large, flat rock or something similar would be the easiest way to create a shallow end. Water should either be filtered, or changed everyday. The land area must provide the frog with deep enough substrate to bury itself completely, as these frogs are burrowers and will often hide in the moist substrate. The best suggestions for substrates would be potting soil, peat moss or coco fibre. Substrate should never dry out, but it shouldn't be soaked either.

Heating: The ambient temp should be kept between 80-85 degrees F. At night, the temp can drop to 75 degrees F, but no lower.

Lighting: A 12hr on/12hr off or 10hr on/14hr off photoperiod should be provided. UV is not nessicarily required.

Humidity: Humidity should remain around 80%. Misting once or twice a day, as needed, to keep the substrate moist should be fine.

Feeding:[spoiler:31phx2va]Juveniles should be fed daily, and slowly reduces for the first year or two as adults only need to eat 2 or 3 times a week. Feed appropriatly sized crickets, earthworms, prawns or shrimp, feeder fish, such as minnows, from a safe source, hornworms, roaches, locusts and other sources of whole food. A varied diet is ideal, but don't stray to far from the staples. Treats should be given no more then once or twice a month. Dust meals once a week with a calcium supplement.[/spoiler:31phx2va]
Don't let the cute name fool you...these guys are nothing like pyxies. They get BIG! And they are tough guys too. Be careful when feeding and handling them: they may not look it, but they are fast and they can jump. They may not be able to tell the diffrence between their food and your fingers. Also, if a male has just come out of aestivation (hibernation. They do this in the wild to escape the dry season. They bury themselves in the substrate, cover themselves in a mucus cacoon and wait for the rainy season. They can spend months like this. They don't always do this in captivity, but they sometimes do. When they wake up they will, obviously, be hungry and the males may be significantly more aggressive then usual. This is because, in the wild, when they wake up it's time to mate. He will be defending his territory because, in the wild, male are fiercly protective of their young.) he will be particularly cranky and handling should be avoided intil he calms down. While they can be quite friendly with their human keepers, they may bark or croak at you to let you know when they have enough. (This is the only time when female will vocalize. Males will often croak, especially if you have a misting system or if it's raining outside (Again, he will feel like it's the rainy/mating season and he will be trying to call his girlfriends lol) They are also called African Bullfrogs.

A juvenile Pyxie

An adult Pyxie lol

The diffrence between male and female Pyxies

 

[Bamboo]

*In Jigsaw voice:* "Would you like to play a game?"

Let's play find the PacMan Frog!![youtube:3eq66w1s]<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/i9juoWIUPLg&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/i9juoWIUPLg&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>[/youtube:3eq66w1s]
Whoever finds it first gets candy! (Magic *coughimaginarycough* internet candy :wink: ) What's that? You want more?

OK, whoever knows what the "main" amphibian character is supposed to be gets bonus magic internet candy...and a deep seated feeling of pride in their amphibian-spotting/identifying abilities and the knowledge that they well succeed in life :mrgreen:

Good Luck!