what's a good basic diet for a rat? I am really confused by everything I was reading here about diet, with all the details. I had heard that lab blocks weren't that good for them. One girl that has rats, says she feeds them grain cereals, like puffed wheat, puffed rice, or oats, and some dried pasta for their teeth , then also some dog food. I don't know if that's a good diet or not. What should I plan on feeding our rat? we are due to get one today , from someone who was re-homing their rat. Don't worry we are likely getting him a friend soon .
confused
- Thread starter muddygrl
- Start date
Help Support The Rat Shack Forum:
dspch911
Senior Member
You need a staple food like oxbow and then you will supplement that with fruits and veggies. There is another staple block, but I'm not sure of the name off hand. You DO NOT want a rat food mix where they can pick out the crappy food they want to eat and leave the good stuff. Absolutely DO NOT feed dog food - its too high in protein and bad for their kidneys.
Also, you'll need to get your rat a buddy. They need to socialize with other rats and not live alone. Please make sure you have a proper ventilated cage - no tanks and no wood chips. Welcome to rat ownership!
Also, you'll need to get your rat a buddy. They need to socialize with other rats and not live alone. Please make sure you have a proper ventilated cage - no tanks and no wood chips. Welcome to rat ownership!
SQ
Senior Member - Vegan for the animals
80% of the diet is a good quality block that they have access to at all times - recommended blocks are Harlan Teklad 2014, Oxbow Regal rat and the Living World hamster block.
20% of the diet is daily vegs and occasional healthy treats such as mixed greens, a piece of fruit, organic pumpkin seeds, cooked quinoa, cooked oatmeal, organic cereal, etc
Any corn needs to be non GMO or organic as GMO corn will kill rats.
Watch for added sugar or salt as these are very unhealthy for rats.
Rats need low protein thus dog food etc is unhealthy. Mixes are not good either because they need a balanced diet but will pick and choose with mixes and thus not get proper nutrition. Please see the reference section for further info on diet or nutritional requirments
Forbidden foods list: http://www.ratshackforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=590
Having at least 2 or 3 sources of water (one show be a dish that can not be upset) is very important.
Rats die every summer when their water bottles get clogged or water dishes upset .... and young rats are unable to move the ball bearing in water bottles as their tongues are not strong enough - they will look like they are drinking but are not able to get any water
Water should not contain fluoride or chlorine as these are toxic - filtering will remove chlorine.
As previously mentioned, rats need to live with at least one same sex friend so you need to get at least 2 rats.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDy3bMRuobE&feature=related[/ame]
If all the rats are under 21 weeks old, then they can just be put together as they are babies and babies see other rats as new playmates.
If any of the rats are over 21 weeks old, then there are established gradual intro steps to follow so that no one is harmed.
http://www.ratshackforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32368
hope this helps
20% of the diet is daily vegs and occasional healthy treats such as mixed greens, a piece of fruit, organic pumpkin seeds, cooked quinoa, cooked oatmeal, organic cereal, etc
Any corn needs to be non GMO or organic as GMO corn will kill rats.
Watch for added sugar or salt as these are very unhealthy for rats.
Rats need low protein thus dog food etc is unhealthy. Mixes are not good either because they need a balanced diet but will pick and choose with mixes and thus not get proper nutrition. Please see the reference section for further info on diet or nutritional requirments
Forbidden foods list: http://www.ratshackforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=590
Having at least 2 or 3 sources of water (one show be a dish that can not be upset) is very important.
Rats die every summer when their water bottles get clogged or water dishes upset .... and young rats are unable to move the ball bearing in water bottles as their tongues are not strong enough - they will look like they are drinking but are not able to get any water
Water should not contain fluoride or chlorine as these are toxic - filtering will remove chlorine.
As previously mentioned, rats need to live with at least one same sex friend so you need to get at least 2 rats.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDy3bMRuobE&feature=related[/ame]
If all the rats are under 21 weeks old, then they can just be put together as they are babies and babies see other rats as new playmates.
If any of the rats are over 21 weeks old, then there are established gradual intro steps to follow so that no one is harmed.
http://www.ratshackforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32368
hope this helps
Last edited:
ok, so a lab block is the basis and then veggies and grains added to that. What is a good protein that is not dog or cat food and how much should I feed of the protein? The people I got him from said he eats Nine lives cat food and chicken and pork chops and veggies. That seems like a bit too much fat and protein
I am hoping to get him a cage mate , but I am worried about introducing . There is someone I talked to that has baby rats due to be weaned next week. The one I got today is about a year old. He seems a little nervous and won't climb in my hand but I can pick him up. He's in a guinea pig cage. (could a baby rat get out of that easily? He can't because he's too big). They had him on shredded paper bedding. His cage STUNK when we brought him home. I cleaned out the paper and wiped it down with vinegar but it still smelled, I think it was the old pee on the bottom that left a smell. I put in new paper bedding but I am going to get something else like Carefresh because I don't think just shredded paper is that odor controlling.
I am really nervous because I've never had a rat. I am comfortable with our guinea pigs and they never bite, just run when you catch them. The rat keeps licking my hands and lightly nibbling because my hands sweat a ton.
I am hoping to get him a cage mate , but I am worried about introducing . There is someone I talked to that has baby rats due to be weaned next week. The one I got today is about a year old. He seems a little nervous and won't climb in my hand but I can pick him up. He's in a guinea pig cage. (could a baby rat get out of that easily? He can't because he's too big). They had him on shredded paper bedding. His cage STUNK when we brought him home. I cleaned out the paper and wiped it down with vinegar but it still smelled, I think it was the old pee on the bottom that left a smell. I put in new paper bedding but I am going to get something else like Carefresh because I don't think just shredded paper is that odor controlling.
I am really nervous because I've never had a rat. I am comfortable with our guinea pigs and they never bite, just run when you catch them. The rat keeps licking my hands and lightly nibbling because my hands sweat a ton.
dspch911
Senior Member
You don't need to feed any protein. The block food has all the nutrition they need. If you get a baby rat you need to wait until its at least 10 weeks old to start intros so it can defend itself otherwise an adult rat could kill, it even on accident.
Lots of times we get rats from others that smell. Their poop can smell from poor diet - which your's obviously had. They can smell from the environment they were in or the cage, if plastic, could smell from not being cleaned. If you use vinegar make sure you mix it with water. Freeze your bedding for at least 48 before use to kill any critters so you don't get mites/lice. Check him over for scabs especially under his chin and around his neck to make sure he doesn't have mites now - lots of times they do.
Yes, baby and young rats need bars that are closer together. Just keep playing with him and he'll get more used to you. Rats rarely bite - they make great pets. Don't put them in balls either to run around in. Sit in a bathtub if your afraid he'll get away for starters.
Lots of times we get rats from others that smell. Their poop can smell from poor diet - which your's obviously had. They can smell from the environment they were in or the cage, if plastic, could smell from not being cleaned. If you use vinegar make sure you mix it with water. Freeze your bedding for at least 48 before use to kill any critters so you don't get mites/lice. Check him over for scabs especially under his chin and around his neck to make sure he doesn't have mites now - lots of times they do.
Yes, baby and young rats need bars that are closer together. Just keep playing with him and he'll get more used to you. Rats rarely bite - they make great pets. Don't put them in balls either to run around in. Sit in a bathtub if your afraid he'll get away for starters.
I am having second thoughts, he smells SO bad. But maybe that's his diet. I need to get the lab block but I haven't been to the store yet.
The other thing worrying me is that he will lunge at your finger if you get it near the bars of the cage. They told me that when I got him . He runs up to the bars like he wants attention and stares at us but I got my finger near, but not close enough and he lunged like he was going to bite.
Maybe they fed him through the bars, I don't know. What I am concerned about is that my cat may go over to the cage and sniff and get bitten. I'm not worried about the cat hurting him, he isn't a hunter, but I am worried the rat will bite my cats nose. I don't have anywhere to put the cage up high and I can't keep him shut in a room by himself forever.
The other thing worrying me is that he will lunge at your finger if you get it near the bars of the cage. They told me that when I got him . He runs up to the bars like he wants attention and stares at us but I got my finger near, but not close enough and he lunged like he was going to bite.
Maybe they fed him through the bars, I don't know. What I am concerned about is that my cat may go over to the cage and sniff and get bitten. I'm not worried about the cat hurting him, he isn't a hunter, but I am worried the rat will bite my cats nose. I don't have anywhere to put the cage up high and I can't keep him shut in a room by himself forever.
SQ
Senior Member - Vegan for the animals
You are right, he likely smells so bad because of this diet and because of the filth he was living in.
Changing his diet will help a great deal with the smell. As time passes smell from his previous environment will go away. If the filth is in his hair shafts, it will take a bit longer but will gradually disappear.
Rats need very little protein, too much will slowly destroy their organs
That is why they need a good quality block low in protein like less then 16% protein, and 14% or less is better
If you are unable to get the recommended blocks locally, there are places it can be ordered from depending upon what country you live in (you did not put that info in your profile)
He bites though the bars because he is likely used to being fed through the bars
Do not put you fingers near the bars and never feed him through the bars
There are things you can do to help him get over this
You are right, he needs to be in the main room so that he gets lots of interaction.
Actually it would be good if he bites your cat because then your cat will be afraid of him and stay far away
No matter how gentle and loving your cat is, cats have instincts and will go after small things that move
so it will be much safer if your cat is afraid of him
Make sure that the cage he is in is extremely secure & sturdy, has small bar spacing, and is at least 4 cubic feet in size (at least 6 cubic feet in size if you are adding 2 babies) with a base of at least 30 in by 18 in and height with levels
He needs at least one other same sex rat to live with (babies or a spayed girl are the easiest to intro to an adult male)
This will not only benefit him, but will make him a much better pet
If you decide to intro babies, it would be best if you get two babies because babies need another baby to play with
Baby boys need to be separated from their mama and sisters at 5 weeks old (some people separate them too early).
They would need to be 10 weeks old before being physically introduced to him.
Since he is an adult, there are gradual intro steps that will need to be followed when introing rats to ensure no one is hurt.
Please read: http://www.ratshackforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32368
Yes, the babies would be able to get out of a guinea pig cage because of the bar spacing.
They would need a cage with very small bar spacing because if a rat can get it's head through the bars, it can get out.
Changing his diet will help a great deal with the smell. As time passes smell from his previous environment will go away. If the filth is in his hair shafts, it will take a bit longer but will gradually disappear.
Rats need very little protein, too much will slowly destroy their organs
That is why they need a good quality block low in protein like less then 16% protein, and 14% or less is better
If you are unable to get the recommended blocks locally, there are places it can be ordered from depending upon what country you live in (you did not put that info in your profile)
He bites though the bars because he is likely used to being fed through the bars
Do not put you fingers near the bars and never feed him through the bars
There are things you can do to help him get over this
You are right, he needs to be in the main room so that he gets lots of interaction.
Actually it would be good if he bites your cat because then your cat will be afraid of him and stay far away
No matter how gentle and loving your cat is, cats have instincts and will go after small things that move
so it will be much safer if your cat is afraid of him
Make sure that the cage he is in is extremely secure & sturdy, has small bar spacing, and is at least 4 cubic feet in size (at least 6 cubic feet in size if you are adding 2 babies) with a base of at least 30 in by 18 in and height with levels
He needs at least one other same sex rat to live with (babies or a spayed girl are the easiest to intro to an adult male)
This will not only benefit him, but will make him a much better pet
If you decide to intro babies, it would be best if you get two babies because babies need another baby to play with
Baby boys need to be separated from their mama and sisters at 5 weeks old (some people separate them too early).
They would need to be 10 weeks old before being physically introduced to him.
Since he is an adult, there are gradual intro steps that will need to be followed when introing rats to ensure no one is hurt.
Please read: http://www.ratshackforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32368
Yes, the babies would be able to get out of a guinea pig cage because of the bar spacing.
They would need a cage with very small bar spacing because if a rat can get it's head through the bars, it can get out.
Last edited:
Joanne
Well-Known Member
If he lunges at you when you get near, then perhaps he will lunge at the cat when he gets near, startling him so he stays away. One of my rats would bite my dog's nose - he was afraid of her, and was very wary around her, keeping his distance.
